The
Winemakers' Cookoff:
A
Journey into Paso Robles
By
Jason Barlow
Lush
green vineyards
that stretch out across the landscape running along Highway
101 are the first clue that I'm getting close. Not long after
sighting these, exit signs direct me into Paso Robles. The streets
have a cozy feel as I pass through the main part of town, moving
out into more open spaces along route-46. For a short while,
I wind through farmland and the fertile glow of dry grasses
before arriving at the Villa Toscana Bed and Breakfast. It is
perched on a tiny hill at the end of Buena Vista Road.
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The
courtyard is lined with bright quartz tile and flanked by shaded
walkways draped with lush twisting vines. From the Cantera Stone
fountain, the sound of gentle rippling water fills the open
air. Homey groupings of tables sit just to the right. They are
perfect for indulging in the early evening spreads put out for
the Villa's guests by head chef Richard Grahm. Prepared in traditional
Mediterranean style, they are a perfect compliment to an assortment
of Martin & Weyrich wines.
Each
room comes with a complimentary bottle of Martin & Weyrich
wine. Thus, my evening begins standing on my private patio,
sipping a crisp, citrusy white, looking out onto rows and rows
of ripening vines and the surrounding farmland. It is a view
that could rejuvenate anyone after a long drive. After taking
in the landscape, I am on to business, sort of.
Just
a few minutes down the roadresides the River Oaks Hot Springs
and Spa. It is the site of the Winemakers Cook Off, an annual
event where the winemakers from the surrounding Paso Robles
region gather to BBQ up their best dishes to pair with their
favorite wines. This year there are over thirty participants.
Even before the 6pm start-time, there is a line. People are
eager with anticipation. The locals I chat with while waiting
all say that it is their favorite event of the calendar. After
a short walk around the grounds, it is easy to see why they
enjoy it so much.
The
River Oaks property is quite serene, with a tranquil lake that
swirls the soft evening breezes and catches the warm evening
sun. There are numerous inviting smells that rise up from the
grills. Pulled-pork sandwiches, ribs dripping with BBQ sauce,
slices of tender steak on garlic bread, jalapeño-poppers,
and an assortment of other mouth-watering dishes keep everyone's
taste buds happy. Big cabernets, bold zinfandels, full-bodied
pinots, and scrumptious blends highlight the regional wines
that are available for pairing.
Wandering
among the different booths, there is a strong sense of hospitality
and family. Everyone is willing to chat. At Eberle's grill,
winemaker Ben Mayo comes out to shake elbows (his hands are
dirty from cooking). Rich Hartenberger of Midnight Cellars comes
out to talk with BBQ sauce spotting his shirt. At the Bianchi
booth, winemaker Tom Lane and his daughter pour side-by-side.
She goes to school in Sweden, so she is happy to spend the evening
with her father, even though she is not officially part of the
winery.
Craig
Reed and Peter Prince of Martin & Weyrich have just returned
from a wine event in Louisiana. They have been up since 2:00
am California time, but they are still present and in high spirits.
Just like the locals, they didn't want to miss any of the fun.
The pair stands by the smoking grill and chat with me and a
couple of the Weyrich children, Andy and Kate. They laugh about
family stories. The winery has been around since 1981, making
it one of the oldest in the region, so there are plenty of tales.
There
was a great amount of excitement when the winery reached its
millionth bottle of nebbiolo. Just getting the grape over from
the Piedmonte region had been a challenge. One clone they acquired
wasn't giving them good color. It turned out to be a Rose clone
of a different varietal. The trials of producing good wine were
all worth it for Craig. He and the family have a special relationship
with Italian varietals. Two years working with his mentor Nick
Martin helped Craig refine his winemaking skills and continue
the winery's legacy for innovation that has been build since
their initial releases. Simply standing next to the smoking
grill, chatting away, I can tell how much the place means to
everyone, and how that spirit has helped in earning so much
praise for their work with Italian varietals. I get to appreciate
that ingenuity first hand, as my parting gift is a glass of
primitivo from marketing director Maura Osbourn. I savor the
lush flavors of red berries and spice as I wander off.
Midway
through the evening, a microphone is passed around from booth
to booth. The winemakers come on and joke, plugging their dishes
and wines, before trying to elicit votes for the people's choice
award. Bribes aren't uncommon, and they were often hard to resist.
Eberle offered a taste of an 18 year-old cabernet, and Arroyo
Robles had rich bite-size pastries to pair with a lovely port.
Midnight Cellars eventually took home the award, and I must
say, their Beefapalooza was tasty when paired with the bold
dark fruit and spice flavors of their Estate Zinfandel.
Once
the festivities concluded, people strolled off into the warm
night air. I made my short trip back to the Villa, returning
to the soothing view of my private patio. My evening ended with
a final glass of wine, looking out over the scattered lights
of the countryside, with the faint chirp of crickets drifting
on the light breezes. Paso Robles has a special sort of charm,
a relaxed welcoming feeling of open country. I had only been
in town for a day, but it was already clear to me. Paso Robles
offered great wine, beautiful surroundings, and interesting
people with great stories. Stop by if you have the chance.
Ohter
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Dreaming: The Winery Estates of Paso Robles
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The
Winemakers' Cookoff: A Journey into Paso Robles
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