THE
FORAGER |
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chef
tested hard to find and unusual products |
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TOQUE
OF SOUTH CAROLINA |
Charleston
Cooks With
A Little Bit Of This - And A Lot Of That
May 2006
By Linda Kavanagh |
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Lowcountry
Cuisine Still Has Deep Roots
In This City’s Thriving Restaurant Scene
I’ve never been one to see a movie based on the reviews,
nor do I stay away from a restaurant due to mediocre opinions
from others. In fact, as a food writer, I tend to “tell
it”, rather than “sell it” either way. Tastes,
experiences, and perceptions are so individual; even I don’t
enjoy hearing over-the-top recommendations, as they never live
up to their hype – good or bad. And why plant a seed in
someone’s head that will either let them down or, worse,
make them feel bad should they not enjoy something that somebody
else told them they would? A recent trip to a long anticipated
destination reinforced what I already knew; 1) always go in
with an open mind 2) keep itineraries loose 3) explore 4) never
feel obligated to stay, eat, or go anywhere that does not interest
you.
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Market
Pavilion Hotel
We were steered in the direction of the Market Pavilion
Hotel in the heart of Charleston, a perfect location
that put us in the thick of things, on the corner of Market
and East Bay Streets, across from the US Customs House Building
and the popular (touristy) City Market. This 66-room boutique
hotel offers stately charm and impeccable service. Owned and
operated by the Palassis Family, the newly renovated building
is quite luxurious with plush furnishings, regal guest rooms,
and the stylish Grill 225, an upscale steak house with “Lowcountry”
twists. Lowcountry cuisine is defined as regional southern foods,
land and sea, and preparations that are flavorful and hearty,
taking its cues from Cajun, Creole, Caribbean, and even its
African descendants.
Executive Chef Demetre Castanas launched Charleston’s
first USDA Prime steakhouse with the introduction of Grill
225 in 2002. While the menu features traditional steakhouse
favorites such as quality meat and fresh seafood, cooking methods
and ingredients are of a distinctive Southern flair –
lots of flavor. Signature appetizers include Kobe beef tartare
with capers and Dijon mustard, the “tuna tower”
of vibrant red sushi grade tuna, lump crab meat, silky avocado
and spicy Chile oil, and decadent prosciutto wrapped shrimp
over creamy white truffle risotto. Fried green tomatoes were
thick and crispy and delicious, a staple in southern households.
The jumbo lump crab cakes lived up to its raves, as it was all
crab, a hint of spice, and lightly sautéed to perfection.
For
the beef entrees, simple char was not enough, as the meat is
highly seasoned with a dry rub that is salty and pungent. We
had a surf and turf combination of shrimp scampi and filet mignon.
In true steakhouse fashion the portions are generous, but with
so much flavor on one plate it can sometimes be overwhelming.
Other beef dishes include the “fromage” with Roquefort
cheese, apple wood smoked bacon, and port wine reduction, and
a steak foie gras dish with truffled béarnaise, parmesan
cheese and fig demi glace. Again, lots of flavors and textures
going on. Our favorite creamed spinach side dish also had that
over-the-top edge to it with the addition of cheese and all
sorts of extras that were not needed. Buttery hashbrown potatoes
are just that – buttery. Adventurous eaters will enjoy
the zest of Grill 225. More simplistic appetites
should stay with the raw bar offerings and grilled beef cuts
such as the prime rib and veal rib chop. Desserts are a must
as they are a work of art as well as absolutely mouthwatering
as we tasted with the key lime pyramid dusted with cocoa and
the chocolate mousse cake with dancing leg cookies! The wine
list is impressive, global, and offers fabulous varietals by
the glass.
Market
Pavilion Hotel & Grill 225
225 East Bay Street
(877) 440-2250
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We
awoke to great coffee and breakfast treats each morning on the
concierge level. Our host, Gerald, was always a cheery start
to our day and full of great recommendations and information
about our surroundings. We ventured out for a stroll along the
Cooper River and Waterfront Park on our first full day in Charleston
(and after that hearty meal the night before). Manicured gardens
and walkways line the entire stretch along the residential side
of the river. The mansions are unique in that they are all multi-leveled,
quite high actually, with turn-of-the-century architecture,
pastel colors, long shutters to frame the large windows, wrap
around balconies, and private narrow driveways with beautiful
wooden garage doors with wrought iron framing. The more pristine
dwellings are just as impressive and magnificently kept. Like
any city, there’s a more urban side of town which is in
the process of an aggressive revitalization campaign to further
boost the tourism industry and provide more housing for its
growing population and workforce.
AW
Shucks & Noisy Oyster
We passed restaurant upon restaurant, reading all of the menus
along the way. After sipping Manhattans at a neighborhood haunt,
we headed to AW Shucks where fried seafood,
shrimp and grits, and good ol’ pub fare round out the
menu. The Noisy Oyster around the corner is
another casual restaurant featuring Lowcountry cuisine. Both
places sold us on their simple fare and fresh oysters on the
half shell. Chowders and gumbo are extremely filling and can
stand on their own (great to share). These are great spots to
hang out in between excursions. By the way, there are enough
bars to keep Charleston afloat should prohibition make a comeback.
AW
Shucks,
70 State Street
(843) 723-1151
Noisy
Oyster
24 N. Market Street
(843) 723.0044
www.noisyoysterseafood.com
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Charleston
Cooks!
Seeing a definite pattern in the menus we were reading, I decided
to take a cooking class at “Charleston Cooks!”
a fantastic kitchen store and culinary school in town. The state-of-the-art
demonstration kitchen is set up a la Food TV with seating for
20, monitors overhead for easy observing, and staffed with local
talented chefs. General Manager/Instructor Danielle
Wecksler took us the through the history and ABCs of
Lowcountry cooking, “Yes, we love our bacon and butter,”
she mused, “and we like to salt our food as well, “
she continued, “it’s all about flavor. We use the
surrounding bounty as seen with our seafood and shellfish and
ingredients such as rice, beans, grains and vegetables. But
those, in themselves, are not flavorful foods.” Point
taken. I learned a lot, ate, shopped, and spent a fun afternoon
with the girls at Charleston Cooks! I highly
recommend checking out their schedule if you’re in town.
Charleston Cooks!
194 East Bay Street
(843) 722-1212
www.mavericksouthernkitchens.com/cooks.html
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Carolina’s
Restaurant
Numerous restaurants were recommended to us and lots of online
hours were spent checking them all out. Our concierge, Gerald,
even pointed us in a few directions. So many places, so little
time. A recommended hot spot was Carolina’s, a landmark
in Charleston’s culinary history, tucked away on a tiny
side street. New Executive Chef Tin Dizdarevic
and Pastry Chef Ann Ladson Stafford, both from
New York, recently came on board to rejuvenate the restaurant’s
appeal. Still elegant with that Southern charm, peach color
walls, terra cotta flooring, and soft lighting, both chefs have
taken the menu to a whole new level. Sure enough, shrimp and
grits are on the menu, as are fried green tomatoes and crab
cakes. The shrimp and crabmeat wontons were suggested but fell
short, but the roasted sweetbreads with butternut squash puree
made up for the dumplings. Their signature dish, Fruits de Mer,
is (changes often) a combination of roasted snapper with fennel
and blood orange, grilled Day Boat scallops and sautéed
spinach, grilled wild shrimp, and poached Maine lobster finished
with lobster and white truffle bisque. The presentation is stunning
and each taste is unique. Desserts are the real showstopper
here. Chef Stafford loves dessert, and it shows in her fluffy
chiffon-like Meyer lemon cake, rich white chocolate panna cotta,
and a scrumptious brioche French toast with maple cream, brown
butter custard and banana chip ice cream. All-in-all, Carolina’s
will not disappoint.
Carolina’s Restaurant
10 Exchange Street
(843) 724-3800
www.carolinasrestaurant.com
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Carolina
Food Pros
The next day I met up with a group of chocolate lovers. That’s
right. I was going on a chocolate tour with South Carolina native
and food historian Amanda Dew Manning of Carolina
Food Pros, a unique company whose mission it is to
promote and preserve South Carolina's rich culinary heritage.
Amanda is an enthusiastic food industry supporter and quite
connected throughout the local restaurant and retail markets.
Our tour took us to several local restaurants with some of the
top pastry chefs in the area. No surprise, Chef Ladson
was our first stop where we learned how she makes her chocolate
nubs ice cream. Another fun stop was at the more modern Tristan
restaurant, where Chef Jered Young demonstrated
his five-spice chocolate ganache tart and then sent us off with
a bag full of sweet treats. Other programs on Amanda’s
agenda include a chef’s kitchen tour, a taste of SC culinary
history tour, and even a farmers and artisan producers tour.
Carolina Food Pros is a great find for food
and history lovers.
Carolina
Food Pros
(877) SC-TASTE
www.carolinafoodpros.com
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Boathouse
On East Bay
Back at the hotel, we wandered up to the rooftop bar/pool
area for some fresh air and the view overlooking downtown
Charleston. Lots of ideas for where to have dinner were
swirling about. Only one thing to do, drop by them all!
After a glass of wine and some hors d’oeuvres with
Gerald, we ventured to The Boathouse Restaurant,
a more casual style seafood restaurant and gathering place.
We were advised to skip this place, as it was “not
like all the other great places in town “ and was
“part of a larger restaurant group”. No matter,
I was curious. Sure enough, Ron and I loved this place
from the moment we walked through the doors. The Boathouse
has lots of atmosphere. The fun nautical theme is felt
throughout with wooden boats, sailing paraphernalia, artwork
and old photos. The friendliest staff adds to the high
energy. While sipping a great sauvignon blanc, we noshed
on creative and fresh sushi rolls including a delicious
“surf and turf” roll of beef carpaccio wrapped
around spicy tuna. We indulged in a martini glass of the
best macaroni cheese we’ve ever had, which is on
their bar menu, filled with great snacks such as mini
burgers, fried shrimp, and icy raw bar items. Steamed
mussels and clams smelled delightfully aromatic. Wishing
we could stay for dinner, it was on to the next restaurant
for a little more research.
Boathouse
On East Bay
549 East Bay Street
(843) 577-7171
www.boathouserestaurants.com
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Fulton
15,
A hidden trattoria that had been talked about by numerous locals,
as well as visitors, was touted as a romantic regional Italian
eatery. We must have been there on an off night. My point about
doing your own thing, taking recommendations with a grain of
salt, and following your own instincts was reinforced here.
The uninterested staff made us feel awkward, the limited wine
choices were weak, the menu was a disappointment, and our entrees
went uneaten due to pasty pasta and a meatless veal shank. It
just wasn’t in the stars that night for Fulton Five. We
brought our dissatisfaction to our waiter’s attention
but were met with attitude. So, we left.
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Tristan
On our walk back towards the hotel, and before our ghost tour
at 11:00pm, we passed by Tristan, the sleek restaurant where
I had met the pastry chef on the chocolate tour. We decided
to check it out. The space is dazzling at night, eclectic and
sophisticated. The open kitchen creates quite a stir throughout
the dining room. We ended up in the cozy bar for a glass of
wine. The bartender was a hoot and took very good care of us.
We sipped our wine, good wine, and perused the menu. It was
a bit all over the map, the theme for most restaurants in the
area, but we liked the menu choices overall and decide on the
wild boar lasagna with porcini pasta, micro basil, perigueux
sauce (a rich brown sauce flavored with Madeira and truffles,
braised plum tomato, and ricotta salata. Yes, it too was multi-layered
with flavors and textures, but it was subtle and the flavors
blended well together. Chef Ciaran Duffy, who
recently took over the kitchen, has created a more modern menu
than that of the surrounding restaurants. Pleased with our spontaneity,
we headed back to the Market Pavilion to our comfy room to sleep
off the day…and the food.
Tristan
55 South Market Street
(843) 534-2155
www.tristandining.com
Before
leaving the next morning, we quickly popped into the nearby
candy stores. Pecan rolls with nougat, chocolate covered everything,
lots of fudge, and those delectable sweet, thin, crispy benne
(sesame seed) wafers were calling our name. We never did make
it to Magnolia’s, Cypress, High Cotton, or Trotters, but
now that we have a better understanding of Lowcountry cuisine
it’ll be easier to make more informed choices when we
return. We loved our Charleston adventure and would definitely
come back for some more of that southern hospitality.
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Linda
Pernice Kavanagh
MaxEx Public Relations, LLC
102 Alton Road
Stamford, CT 06906
P 203.323.4185 F 4183
linda@maxexposure.net
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