The
Valdarno Chicken
Story and Photographs By: Stephen Ashton
The
next day is another educational forum at the “Laboratory
of Taste,”this time devoted to the free range breed
of Valdarno Chicken and the unique dishes made
from it. Francesca Romana Farina, who returned
to farming after completing studies in archeology, is now a leader
of the Presidium. Francesca
considers herself, and a number of other professionals who have
returned to small family farms in Tuscany, a “custodians
of the breed.”She tells us that this slow growing chicken
was originally raised by the sharecroppers of the Arno Valley
and the hens and eggs actually became a form of currency. It is
a lean chicken with thin skin and runs freely through the olive
groves, vineyards (except during harvest) and in the
forest. It takes at least 10 square meters of open land for each
bird, so the preservation of the breed also impacts land use in
general. Valdarnese eggs are higher in Omega 3's than commercial
eggs.
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The
first dish we taste in the “Laboratory”this afternoon
is a chopped egg, parsley, capers and garlic patê on toast
with olive oil; then chopped chicken liver on toast and a true
Tuscan treasure, Collo di Pollo Ripieno or Stuffed Chicken Neck.
The
Collo di Pollo Ripieno recipe is fairly simple, but great care
must be taken to not tear the chicken neck skin.
You
need a chicken neck with the head on to be traditional. Tie the
beak closed. Singe off any pinfeathers and debone the neck. In
a bowl mix an egg, a pinch of salt and nutmeg. Then add pre-browned
finely minced chicken livers, parsley, garlic, lemon peel, the
soft part of a thick slice of Tuscan bread which has been soaked
in milk, and a healthy spoonful of parmigiano reggiano. Mix it
well and CAREFULLY stuff the neck and sew the base closed. Simmer
the works in boiling broth for 30 to 40 minutes, let it cool and
then slice and serve cold.
Our
next dish is a fine Medieval cream chicken soup, Zuppa di Tarlati,
is made with the Valdarno Chicken from a recipe of Guido Tarlati,
13th century bishop and fierce nobleman of Arezzo. Serve hot with
a toasted slice of Tuscan bread and extra virgin olive oil.
And
the Laboratory concludes with a serving of the delicious Pistoia
Pecorino Raw Sheep Milk Cheeses in three variations: Pecorino
Fresco,”a “fresh”cheese aged only 7 to 20 days.
It has to be made within 2 hours of the sheep's milking because
the milk is un-pasteurized. The distinctly flavored Pecorino Abbucciato”-
aged 35 to 80 days; and Pecorino Asserbo”which is harder
and aged from 3 to 18 months. The fresh cheeses are excellent
with bitter Chestnut Honey while the more aged cheeses are wonderful
paired with a Chianti Classico or Brunello di Montalcino. It is
particularly interesting to note that the cheeses differ according
to the seasons because of what grasses are available to the mountain
Massese sheep.
We
manage to drive down the wine road a bit to an elegant Villa,
the Madonnina del Chiaro Damiani that houses a small winery where
travelers can find rooms as part of Tuscany's Agriturismo”services.
Some of the areas best views are seen from their well appointed
rooms. As the day turns to night we drive to the grand finale
of the event...
Other
Great Links
Antichi
Sapori di Toscana
To
The Ark
The
Valdarno Chicken
Roventino
Antichi
Sapori di Toscana, The Slow Food Way Ancient Tastes of Tuscany
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