By Stephen Ashton

INNISKILLIN'S DYNAMIC DUO DON ZIRALDO AND KARL KAISER, THE PIONEERS OF CANADIAN ICEWINE WITH VIDAL GRAPES

Niagara-On-The-Lake, Ontario, Canada
When Austrian-born Karl Kaiser, homemade wine in hand, wandered into Donald Ziraldo’s family-run nursery in 1971, neither man imagined that they would become partners and more surprisingly, world renowned visionaries largely responsible for creating a wine industry and a new cool climate viticultural region.

Karl had been buying "French Hybrid" vines to make wines similar to those he enjoyed back home in Austria. On frequent visits to the nursery, Karl would suggest Donald sell, instead of Hybrids, the prized European clones – Vitis Vinifera – which were virtually unavailable in Canada at the time. Like everyone else, Donald was told that the sensitive Viniferas could not survive the harsh, cold winters of the Niagara Peninsula. Having tended vines in Austria, Karl knew this was a fallacy. Foremost, Ontario runs on the same latitude as areas in France. Secondly, Ontario possessed a terroir (geography, climate and soil) ideal for growing European varieties that flourish in cool viticultural climates.

Donald was taken by the idea and against the advice of "experts" decided to plant Vitis Viniferas on his family farm. By 1975, the two renegade wine-lovers were granted the first winery license in Ontario, Canada, since Prohibition, 1929, by General George Kitching. Their first vintages "were actually undrinkable," Ziraldo says. But through trial and error, and a stroke of good luck primed by determination, the wines, over time, began to be noticed. The real turning point, however, came in the 1980’s after Karl, remembering the joys of Austrian and German wines made from frozen grapes, returned to Europe to discover the secrets of this nectar which, due to weather, could only be made a few years out of each decade.

By 1989, Inniskillin was making Icewine from Niagara Peninsula Vidal grapes. Donald optimistically entered the 1989 vintage into the 1991 VinExpo International Wine Competition, the most prestigious wine competition in the world, held in Bordeaux, France. Although personally delighted with their succulent product, Ziraldo and Kaiser were as amazed as the rest of the wine world when Inniskillin was awarded the prestigious Grand Prix d’Honneur! (Higher than a gold medal.) This success opened the eyes of wine lovers and wine writers from around the world, and put Canada on the wine world map. In Canada the winery was bombarded with international media demands. Inniskillin Wines, while already successful among wine lovers, became a household name with their Icewine becoming a national treasure.

Since 1991, Icewine has become a highly priced and treasured mainstay of Inniskillin and other Canadian wineries. It is sold in North American and around the world, such as in Japan and China.

Icewine is said to have been discovered in Franconia, Germany in 1794 when a snap freeze caused the growers to harvest grapes off the vines while frozen solid. Pressing off these grapes in the bitter cold caused the first juice released to be extraordinarily sweet! The same methods, although a bit more refined, are in effect today. While Germany and Austria still make fine Eisweins, it is Ontario, Canada that has become the most awarded region for Icewines and the world’s biggest producer.

It is vital that the frozen grapes are hand picked and pressed in the cold of night so that the morning sun does not thaw them. The process is carefully monitored, because the pressing must stop before the sweet juice becomes diluted. Yields are therefore only about 1/10th of what a normal harvest would bring. A lengthy fermentation process follows, and even though the wines can be as high in alcohol as most white wines, about 11%, they retain a substantial amount of natural sugars, about 160 grams/liter. However, the grape’s natural acidity balances this sweetness to perfect harmony, so as not to leave a cloying sensation on the palate. The wines are typically golden and brilliant, with aromas of apricot, pears, lychee, nutmeg and vanilla. Complex flavors of honey, mango, tropical fruits and spices are characteristics that drive aficionados back to them year after year. Heady and delicious as an aperitif, Icewines partner well with foie gras, fresh fruit dishes, desserts and some rich seafood dishes.

Vidal in the most common varietal for Icewine, but Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, and other varietals make excellent dessert wines, each with unique nuances.
Donald Ziraldo has championed the Niagara Peninsula region as one of the chosen viticultural areas of the world and now more than 40 wineries are producing Icewines.

Not ones to rest on laurels, Ziraldo and Kaiser pursue other Vinifera varietal wines that also gain unexpected praise. Niagara grown Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines are making names for themselves in national and international competitions, as well.
Wineries in the area, such as John Howard’s Vineland Estates, are planting tests of many different varietals in the quest for finding the very best clones suited for particular micro-climates within the appellations of the Niagara region. The area is also a favored travel destination. World class restaurants, like Mark Picone at Vineland Estates Winery, are creating magnificent food/wine pairings.

Ziraldo, who travels more than half of the year, spreads the word about fine Canadian wines. He pays special attention to the food and wine experience at the finest restaurants in the world. He is quick to recognize excellence, such as the special presentation he made recently upon the occasion of Toronto’s Opus Restaurant On Prince Arthur’s recognition as one of the TOP FIVE best restaurants in North America. (See "Toronto-Great Places, Great Chefs" in this issue.)

Donald Ziraldo is acknowledged as evangelizing the Canadian wine regions in the same way that Robert Mondavi brought the world’s respect to Napa Valley. Ziraldo was appointed in 1993 to the Order of Ontario and then in 1998 was awarded the Order of Canada, the nations highest honour for lifetime achievement.

Donald Ziraldo continues to lead the industry into the future. He is the Founding Chairman of the Vintner’s Quality Alliance (VQA), a body that regulates the industry for quality standards. The VQA is similar to France’s Appellation Control (AOC) and Italy’s DOC.

GRILLED PORK WITH FOIE GRAS, SALSIFY AND LEMON THYME CONFIT	ONTARIO MINISTER OF TOURISM CAM-RIGHT

DON'S FRIEND ANN, DON ZIRALDO OF INNISKILLIN IN OPUS WITH SCULPTURE BOTTLE OF THEIR BEST ICEWINE.	SEARED SCALLOPS WITH THE CANADIAN STURGEON CAVIAR AND CHIVE BEURRE BLANCE SAUCE-THAT IS A MOUTHWATERING DELIGHT WITH INNIDSKILLIN'S MONTAGUE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR

Food and Beverage International Film and Travel Editor Stephen Ashton is, photographer,writer,and winegrower of Ashton Vineyards Pinot Noir and Syrah, and Founder/Director of the Wine Country Film Festival.

To find out more, please visit www.riedel.com
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