THE
PRESIDIA OF SLOW FOOD
As we approach the elegant arches (decidedly
not “golden) of the Spedale di Sant’Antonio,
aromas of the rescued foods of the Presidi waft through the air.
Products ranging from raw sheep-milk Mountain Pecorino
Cheeses; delicious dried meats like Mallegato
Sanguinaccio, or blood sausage made with pieces of lard,
nutmeg, cinnamon, pinenuts and thickened with water-soaked bread;
and Prato Mortadella, a large diameter sausage
from Prato that came into being in Tuscany as
a means of using up leftover cured meats and the poorer cuts of
pork.
Among
the featured food enterprises are rare animals such as the Valdarno
Chicken, which has been preserved by the diligent efforts
of Francesca Romana Farina and her associates
from Montevarchi in the Tuscan province of Arezzo,
and the Palamita fish (a kind of
Tuna) of the Tuscan Archipelago Islands. This wonderful fish
is served fresh, dried, smoked, and preserved. But it is the Mediterranean
Bottarga (grey mullet) roe that is particularly
prized. Harvested whole and preserved in their original sac, the
roe has been a delicacy since ancient times. The name
Bottarga is said to have evolved from the Arabic
phrase for raw fish eggs: “bot-ah-rik.”The
art of preserving fish and roe is nowhere more developed than
in Orbetello in the Tuscan province of Grosetto and the Archipelagos.
One
of the arched halls housed an Enoteca (Wine
Store) offering tastings of Florentine and regional wines
from small family wineries. Although most of the Presidi foods
are pricy, appreciative patrons sampled and bought for three days,
providing encouragement to these committed food producers.
On to dinner at Ristorante “Antichi Sapori”where
Roventino is again served with a tasty and hearty
dish –Pappa al pomodoro – A typical
Tuscan “Children's Food.”This vegetable
soup or stew, based on day-old stale Tuscan bread soaked in chicken
or beef stock or water for 10 minutes, then cooked with tomato,
basil, garlic and olive oil, is perfect to take the chill off
a winter evening.
This
is followed by Pennette al ragù di salsiccia
(Penne with Sausage Ragù), followed by a succulent
Arista con L’Osso e Rape (Roast Pork
flank with Rape). The name of this dish, “Arista”dates
back to 1430's Papal Council in Florence when the ecumenical council
attempted to settle differences between the Greek and Roman Churches.
The Florentines, known even then for their fine cuisine, served
their guests roast pork loin with garlic and rosemary inserted
in holes made in the meat and seasoned with salt, pepper and spices.
The Greeks exclaimed “Arista, arista!”(The
Best, the best!) and the name of the dish stuck. The green
rape is tossed in the juices of the roast.
Topping
off the meal is a rich dessert of Torta al Semolino
(Chocolate Semolina Torte).
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