DAY 2
We go to Orta and visit the Sacred Mountain, or as they say in Italy, Orta’s Sacro Monte-- a devotional complex of 20 small chapels that depict St. Francis’ life through sculptures and paintings. The complex today is a national park, home not only to international travelers, but a place for summer day camps for Italian children, that sits on top of a hill overlooking the beautiful Lake Orta. The complex is just up the hill from the lake, which is dotted with hotels and restaurants. They do not allow cars into the park but coordinate trolleys for the tourists in order to maintain the quiet, serene atmosphere.

When the construction of the Sacro Monte of Orta was initiated in 1590, it was intended as an emulation of another devotional complex: the Sacro Monte of Varallo (which we visited later). A generous patron named Abbot Camico Canobio funded the construction of the first chapel and many other patrons would follow his example in the subsequent years.

Inspired by the ideals of the counter-reformation, Bishop Carlo Bascapé brought a conservative element to the construction of the Sacro Monte of Orta. When Bascapé began oversight of the project in 1593, he sought to make the complex a strict center of devotion. One episode of St. Francis’ life was depicted in each of the chapels, and Bascapé gave precise instructions as to what each scene should look like. He also set up a committee to keep tight watch over how donated funds were spent on the project.

Although Bascapé oversaw the construction during this time, the Sacro Monte of Orta is the result of a collaboration between many creative minds.The overall plan was drawn up by the architect Cleto of Castelletto Ticino. The paintings and statues that tell the story of St. Francis’ life were contributed by highly respected artists from Italy’s cultural centers.

As other bishops took Bascapé’s place and construction continued into the 17th and 18th centuries, a more theatrical style was introduced to the complex. Dramatic poses, vivid colors, and rounded figures began to characterize the chapels. In the late 18th century, the role of the bishop in overseeing the complex diminished and the Franciscan friars were put in charge of service and maintenance. These days, the Sacro Monte of Orta is protected and conserved by a Regional Administrative Board.

The Sacro Monte of Orta is not just a shrine to the past. Today, it is bustling with an order of monks and nuns, who were in the middle of services when our group arrived. Even though they were in the middle of a national park open to tours, the apartments above the chapels are the actual housing of the monks and nuns.

Overlooking Lake Orta from atop the Sacro Monte, is the full view of the Isle of San Giulio, a tiny island consisting of a 12th Century Romanesque Basilica, frescoes and other medieval buildings, which allow you to again, enjoy a slice of the past in historical buildings that have been converted to lodging, sports facility, and museums.
If you are not a history buff, Orta and the surrounding area provide a wide range of modern recreation. On Lake Orta, the full spectrum of water sports is offered: swimming, sailing, canoeing, water skiing and underwater diving. Several golf courses are available and the hills are laced with dozens of trails for hiking and mountain biking.

Travelers who want to soak up modern Italian culture will not be disappointed either. Fine food lovers will find restaurants lush with locally produced wines, cheese, fruits and honey. In the spring and summer, entertainment ranges from flower shows to street markets and festivals.

La Bussola Hotel

La Bussola Hotel and restaurant overlooks Lake Orta and the San Giulio’s Island. This would be a wonderful place to stay when planning a visit to the Sacro Monte, for not only would you be just moments away from the 20 chapels dedicated to the life and works of St. Francis, but you would be moments away from beaches, water sports, and boat rentals, should you decide to explore the San Giulio Island as part of your visit.

The cuisine of the restaurant featured the local fare of the area, which included a goat cheese so sweet and creamy that I asked the chef three times to make sure he really knew what I was asking for.

The main course featured a salmon trout and La Virello, a white fish caught from Lake Orta, cooked simply on a hot stone at our table.

Where to Stay:

Hotel La Bussola Via Panoramica 24 - 28016 Orta S. G. (NO) Tel. +39 0322 911913 hotelbussola@yahoo.it http://www.orta.net/bussola/ Hotel Ristorante Villa San Francesco Orta San Giulio - Fraz. Legro Tel. +39 0322 90258 villas.fransesco@libero.it www.viaggiaedormi.it or www.viaggiaedormi.it/eng/scheda.php? Hotel Ristorante San Rocco Orta San Giulio - Van Gippini, 11 Tel. +39 0322 911977 info@hotelsanrocco.it www.hotelsanrocco.it Hotel Ristorante La Sibilia Cusiana Plattenasco - Loc. Punta di Crabbia Tel. +39 0323 888030 info@lasibillacusiana.com www.lasibillacusiana.com Hotel Ristorante Villa Crespi Orta San Guilo Via Fava, 18 Tel. +39 0322 91102 villacrespi@lagodortahotels.com www.lagodortahotels.com www.initaly.com www.initaly.com/hisres/crespi/crespi.htm Hotel Ristorante Battle of Britain Ameno - Loc. Vacciago Viale Santuario Bocciola, 17 Tel. +39 0322 998200 hotelbritain@libero.it www.ospitalitalia.it/motore_ primocontatto.php/NO Hotel Ristorante Nuova Italia Gozzana - Via Beltrami, 19 Tel. +39 0322 89118 www.hotelnuovaitalia.net Albergo Ristorante La Genzianella Miasino - Via Per Armeno, 10 Tel. +39 0322 980051 www.genzianella.com/ Hotel Ristorante Croce BIanca Omegna - Via Mazzini, 2 Tel. +39 0323 866106 info@albergocrocebianca.com www.albergocrocebianca.com Bed and Breakfast II Rustico Ameno - Vicolo Scolari, 5 Tel. Fax +39 0322 980323 monaco_riccardo@libero.it www.monteoro.org Hotel Ristorante Cicin Casale Corte Cerro Reg. Gabbio, Via Novara Tel. +39 0323 846702 www.hotelcicin.com Hotel Ristorante Alpi Arola - Via per Omegna, 17 Tel. +39 0323 821116 albergoalpi@yahoo.it http://hotel.saperviaggiare.it/Lago-dOrta.asp Campeggio Punta di Crabbia Pettenasco - Via Crabbia, 2/a Tel. +39 0323 89117 www.campingpuntacrabbia.it Bed and Breakfast Villa Pinin Orta San Guilio - Via G. Fava, 12 Tel. +39 0322 905505 villapinin@yahoo.it www.bed-and-breakfast-in-italy.com/ Bed and Breakfast La Fattoria del Pino Miasino - Regione Brascino Tel. Fax +39 0322 980050 martinelli.nigro@tiscalinet.it www.fattoriadelpino.it Albergo Omnidiet Armeno - Fraz. Coiromonte Via Monte Falo 8/10 Tel. +39 0322 999009 omnidiet@Mirapuri-Enterprises.com www.Mirapuri-Enterprises.com Camping Royal Pettenasco - Via Pratolungo, 32 Tel. +39 0323 888945 www.campeggitalia.com/campeggi/gb/ piedmont.htm