Beverage Biz
By
Tom Luther
Change
is the only constant. Heard this one before? The world of beverage,
like its traditional companion food, is a constantly changing
scene. Consider the wine scene and the subject of blending will
enter into the discussion quickly. This is the art of mixing
varietals to create a specific flavor profile. Wasn't too long
ago that this was the exception not the norm. Now it is the
norm not the exception. I can remember when the Aussies and
the French were the only winemakers practicing this art form.
Now everyone in the wine biz is doing it. Take the growth of
Rhone style wines. When it gets to a wine list at $16.75 a glass,
that's news! Yes, that's per glass for a taste of French Rhone
from Chapoutier, Cote Rotie, on the wine list at the new hot
trend setter, Azie Restaurant in S.F.
California
winemakers are producing masterful blends as well. At the annual
Harvest Celebration in San Luis Obispo I rediscovered excellent,
world class California Rhone style wines, specifically from
the Central Coast. This event, under the guidance of Archie
McLaren, of KCBX Central Coast Wine Auction fame, could almost
be called The California Rhone and Burgundy Harvest Celebration,
is sponsored by The Edna Valley Arroyo Grande Valley Vintners
Assoc. Sitting with event P.R. person Kathy Marcks Hardesty
and winemakers, John Alban, our host at the table, Krimo Souilah,
formerly of Clos du Val, and Brucher Winery winemaker. John
is the winemaker of Alban Vineyards, who claims to be the first
( 1986 ) winery dedicated to Rhone varietals, produces a Grenache
that is killer, especially for its surprising richness. None
of us could identify, when tasting it blind.
I
also discovered the rising star chefs of the Central Coast at
this dinner, hosted by Chef Paul Kwong, of the Embassy Suites,
whose father was a chef and mother was a Food and Beverage Director!
His peers include John Ernst, Executive Chef for The Inn at
Morro Bay; Felicien Cueff of Citronelle in Santa Barbara; Michael
Albright of the newest restaurant in the area, Steamers in Pismo
Beach. My personal favorite was Seared Foie Gras in a Farmer's
Market, mini pumpkin with braised red cabbage, chanterelles,
figs, huckleberries and candied walnuts! The sensory pleasures
from the successful partnership of their superb food presentation
and the well crafted wines could be aptly described a marriage
made in heaven!
The
winemaking team at Laetitia Vineyards and Winery is being billed
to us wine scribes in these terms as well. Formerly the vineyard
and home developed by French viticulturists of Deutz Champagne,
the French connection is in the hands of consultants, Michelle
Pignarrre Le Danois and Louis Mitjavile. Winemaker John Clark's
team includes Kelly Clark, Jeff Frey, Andres Buenrostro, Dave
Hickey, Jonathan Avila and Eric Hickey. This American melting
pot team was assembled by Nebil "Bilo" Zarif, Turkish
born and French educated, which qualifies them for membership
in the United Natiuons!..This spectacular property, (our home
while there ), grows some of the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
in my experience. The tasting panel form the Wall St. Journal
called their Pinot one of their favorites of the whole tasting!
This
viticultural area is also known for Syrah, although the wine
world of consumers is just catching up. The July issue of Wine
Business Monthly show volume sales of Syrah/Shiraz in domestic
grocery and drug stores up a whopping 55.2% versus a year ago!
Better not forget the other favorite varietal of mine, Sangiovese,
which this area excels in as well. The approach of Edna Valley
Vineyard's winemaker, Jason Maglinte, is to treat the vines
like Pinot Noir even tough the wine tastes like a Merlot/Cabernet
style wine. One of the best Nebbiolo style wines also comes
from the winemaker synonymous with the Central Coast, Jim Clendenon
of Au Bon Climat and Qupe Wineries. He is really a gifted winemaker,
adept with Chardonnays, Pinots, Italian style, Rhone style blends,
whatever. This is also Bonny Doon country, as well as Meridian,
Peachy Canyon, Baileyana, Corbet Canyon, Byron, Cambria, Firestone,
Gainey, Sanford, Whitcraft, Zaca Mesa. It almost makes me want
to stay for the rest of the year!
FYI
#1: The American Vintners Assoc., of Washington D.C.,
notes that the number of U.S. Wineries grew 29 percent, to 2,081,
from 1995 to 1999. Among the states with the strongest growth
in wineries were Washington, to 125 from 93; Colorado, to 26
from 10; and Virginia, to 54 from 44.
FYI
#2: See you at the Rhone Rangers, The Pinot Noir Weekend,
The Passport week end, The Annual Calaveras Grape Stomp and
whatever else comes up in the world of wine.