Culinary
Prowess on Point at
Kettner Exchange Restaurant San Diego
San
Diego's Little Italy section has morphed into a culinary
craft hotspot, with exciting new restaurants pushing food and
beverage boundaries like never before. Among the array of notable
establishments that have cropped up is the hip hotspot Kettner
Exchange. This lively, impeccably-designed, multi-level restaurant
(boasting Little Italy's only rooftop patio) is the current
see-and-be-seen "it" eatery-and with good reason.
Decidedly swag vibe and pretty people aside, Executive Chef
Brian Redzikowski masterfully imbues refined Asian flare and
other ethnic infusions into comfort-style favorites while skillfully
serving up unique spins on everyday fare. His fan-favorite Big
Eye Tuna "Pizza" ($18) is case in point. However,
not to be outdone, bar manager Steven Tuttle's specialty craft
cocktail program is also lauded as "unique and forward-thinking."
All combined this restaurant has a sure-fire recipe for success.
While
Kettner Exchange, which opened in October 2014, may be the cool
new kid on the block, the restaurant pays homage to San Diego's
rich maritime history dating back over one hundred years. For
starters is the restaurant's namesake, William Kettner-a Democratic
Congressman in the early 1900's credited with bringing the Navy
to San Diego among other notable accomplishments. The reverence
for Kettner's contributions, and the county's nautical roots
at large, duly extends into the restaurant's décor, which
exudes a warm and dignified seafaring sensibility that's not
overly theatrical. Notable interior design touches like antique
brass sconces, antique binoculars, a custom chess set with pieces
designed after famous San Diego landmarks, and an early 20th
century topographic map of the San Diego Bay embellishing a
dark mirrored wall and ceiling all serve as reminders of San
Diego's legacy in the Naval community, as does the compulsory
portrait of William Kettner above the fireplace. However, the
overarching effect is not "old fashioned" or stuffy,
but rather the space is quite bright, airy and contemporary.
Kettner Exchange is the brainchild of the same folks who brought
other notable eateries to San Diego like Firehouse American
Eatery + Lounge in Pacific Beach and both Vin De Syrah and Analog
downtown. While design elements of the eatery may harken back
to days of yore, its approach to food and beverage service is
quite contemporary, featuring Chef Redzikowski's personal interpretation
of progressive American cuisine.
And
he has much experience to draw from having worked for some of
the best restaurants and chefs in the country, including New
York City's acclaimed Le Cirque 2000, Colorado's Nobu Matsuhisa
Aspen and Yellowtail Restaurant in the Bellagio Hotel and Casino
Las Vegas. Chef Redzikowski also competed in Iron Chef America,
which is proof-positive that he can think creatively on-the-fly
and manage a team under extreme pressure.
At
Kettner Exchange, Chef Redzikowski's pedigree shines through.
"He is constantly adding new menu items and expressing
his culinary expertise by leveraging new and interesting local
finds and putting them to work on the menu," notes spokesperson
Carrie Barrett. "For example, foie gras has recently made
its way into various nightly specials that change each week
to surprise and delight guests." Though I didn't opt for
it, on the evening of my own dinner service visit the Hudson
Valley Foie Gras ($19) was a preparation with mango, Brussels
sprouts and balsamic-teriyaki.
The
menu at Kettner Exchange is decidedly sharing-friendly, prompting
my party of four to eat family style. We chose a diverse range
of "shared plate" and "small plate" starters,
two "large plate" entrees and two desserts. Much to
our delight, the overarching epicurean experience excelled in
all key areas-what I have affectionately coined my "5 P's":
dish planning (conception), presentation, preparation, proportion
and piquancy.
Amid
the numerous dishes I sampled that evening, there were certainly
a number of "most memorables." From the "shared
plate" category, the Japanese Okonomiyaki ($12) pancake
was a delight. Just the right amount of crunch on the outside
with a soft and moist interior, the mild pancake was juxtaposed
with two savory sauces (one crème-based, one glaze) that
worked equally well for the sweet, firm grilled shrimp playfully
perched on top. A dash of diced daikon radish, scallions and
fresh micro greens added just the right amount of crisp and
earthy notes.
Another
"shared plate" standout was the Grilled Skuna Bay
Salmon ($14). Mild and tender, the buttery fish was served atop
a bed of sautéed shiitake mushrooms that added more meaty
mouthfeel to the dish, and both texture and flavor were further
bolstered by a topping of crispy fried onion strings and diced
scallion. While I don't often include Brussels sprouts in my
fish recipes, the addition of the leafy vegetable to this dish
worked really well. A drizzling of sassy caramelized mustard
tied the components together beautifully.
From
the "small plate" section, we loved the Cauliflower
Tempura ($14). While
simple conceptually, execution was on point. A glistening beurre
rouge sauce soaked into the light batter encasing the deep fried
vegetable, which was also topped with fresh uncooked cauliflower
shavings. A sprinkling of blue cheese crumbles and tender, slightly
peppery mustard frills balanced out the flavor profile.
The
fresh and fragrant Fatty Crab Salad ($19) was my favorite among
all of the starters. With Alaskan King crab, mango, long beans,
bok choy, cilantro and crunchy onion strings, this salad was
a symphony of texture. An extremely light citrus dressing added
the necessary touch of acid that made this dish sing.
As
for the entrees, the taste of the New York Strip Steak ($37)
was nearly outdone by the gorgeous rustic presentation. The
perfectly cooked sliced steak, dripping with natural juices,
was anchored on a bed of rich, buttery, sour cream-enhanced
brittany mashed potatoes along with thick-cut wild mushrooms
and squash blossoms-some tempura fried.
A
tempura fried onion ring and fresh greens rounded out the garden
aesthetic of this insanely delicious dish.
From
turn to surf, the Alaskan Black Cod ($32) was just a touch too
sweet for our taste given the heavy hand on the miso glaze.
A shame since the fish was otherwise impeccably cooked. Luckily
there was a copious amount of grainy, wholesome quinoa and broccoli
rabe, and just enough red pear onion to cut through the strong
glaze flavor and make the dish less one-note.
Desserts
held their own, with every drop of the creamy, pudding-like
Caramel Budino ($8) with crème fraiche and Maldon sea
salt being duly devoured. The Chocolate Cup ($9) with Nutella
powder, banana froth and vanilla bean ice cream was just as
enthusiastically received.
Also
worth mentioning is that, in addition to its regular dinner
service, Kettner Exchange holds private Chef's Table dinners
allowing patrons to enjoy a "behind the scenes" look
at Chef Redzikowski's domain. The Chef's Table is tucked into
a cozy back corner of the kitchen where there is a bird's eye
view of the bustling brigade. The space accommodates eight guests
at a time and is available for private bookings only. Each $125
seat includes a specially-designed five course meal with food
and wine pairings conceived by Chef Redzikowski along with the
restaurant's in-house Sommelier, Jonathon Brennan.
Whether
you opt to dine at Kettner Exchange's Chef's Table or in its
main dining room, you're certain to experience gratifying food
and drink in an upbeat atmosphere sure to keep you coming back
for more.
Kettner
Exchange Restaurant
2001 Kettner Blvd.
San Diego, CA
Phone: 619 255-2001
http://www.kettnerexchange.com/
By Merilee Kern, 'The Luxe List' Executive Editor
"The
Luxe List" Executive Editor Merilee Kern scours the luxury
marketplace for exemplary travel experiences, extraordinary
events, and notable products and services. Submissions are accepted
at www.LuxeListReviews.com.
Follow her on Twitter here: http://twitter.com/LuxeListEditor
and Facebook here: www.Facebook.com/TheLuxeList.
***Some
or all of the accommodations(s), experience(s), item(s) and/or
service(s) detailed above were provided at no cost to accommodate
this review, but all opinions expressed are entirely those of
Merilee Kern and have not been influenced in any way.***