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THE FORAGER
chef tested hard to find and unusual products

TRAVEL

Photos and Text By Michael & Ellen Walsh

What would it take for religious tourism to come alive for you?
With faith on our side, we began our journey to the Sacred Mountain Sanctuaries of the Piedmont region of Italy. As we traveled through the seven most magnificent retreats in the area, we were astounded by the massive amount of intricate carvings, paintings, and statues that were still available to view. As students of World History, one is reminded of the power of the Catholic church during those medieval times, as it served as a powerful employer of artists and artisans throughout the region. One marvels with a kind of intellectual curiosity at the historical significance as you go through magnificent church after magnificent church, all snuggled away in the most beautiful country side you could ever hope to lay eyes on.

Click on Images for Captions or to Enlarge

But what made it come alive as a spiritual awakening?
For us it was the end of the trip, and so we create a beginning for this story out of the end. It all took place in a tiny little town called Sordevolo, where 450 residents of a town that housed only 1157 residents, put on the play “ The Passion of the Christ”.

Sordevolo, 650 meters above sea level, is situated on the first hills north of Biella, protected by the proximity of Mt. Mombarone and Mt. Mucrone, and surrounded by the history we had just spent the last five days visiting. In this natural setting of hills, woods and mountains, for over two centuries from the beginning of '800, the representation of the Passion takes place every five years, absorbing all the resident’s in some capacity or other, as they get ready to perform June through September. The promotion is spread throughout the region, and the seats are filled to capacity the entire time. It is an important part of the town’s commerce, and they take it very seriously.

We were there for the opening, and as our group of 10 writers from all over the world was ushered into an outdoor amphitheater that would rival Tanglewood in Lenox, Massachusetts, and Red Rocks in Denver, Colorado, we gratefully sat our tired bodies down. The sound was impeccable, and the seating was more than comfortable. It was blistering hot for the most part of our mid August trip, but that evening you could imagine a faint breeze as we settled in to being comfortable. The ushers gave a person in each row a small canister of mosquito spray to share.

Just like the fourth of July, you had to wait for the sun to go down before the play began. Upon the final setting of the last glimmer of sunset, the amphitheater became, in front of our very eyes, the town center of Jerusalem. Real horses galloped across the sandy floor, and mothers scurried to find their children, as night settled in. A little girl called out to her daddy, who was a Sheppard tending the sheep in a field not too far off. The play really began when Pilates came in on a horse drawn chariot with mounted cavalry guard on all sides. I didn’t understand a word of Italian, but I knew that this was Pontius Pilate.

The Passion was a play of triumph for the village, and a spiritual awakening for all who sat through it. Members of the play hugged and wept as they took their bows at the end of the night. For those of you who know the story, the actor who played Jesus was on the cross for 45 minutes each night, every night that the play was on. A lot of faith went in to pulling that very strenuous act off, and it riveted throughout the cast.

For those who live their lives making Christ a part of it, the play was the glue for the whole trip. It wasn’t just history anymore, it wasn’t just a reminder of the Reformation and how the Catholic church split apart, or the glory and magnificence of the Catholic church during its most powerful reign in history. It was watching a culture live their lives, surrounding their lives with the details of nature’s awesome beauty, and the simple things people do in each area of that region that glorify their way of life.

From the incredible wine, sweet dairy and grain products indigenous to that region, to the year in year out dedication to the play produced in Sordevolo, the trip to the seven sanctuaries was a reminder of a certain glory of Italy, set in a natural surrounding that cries out to be visited.

As you read the descriptions of the sanctuaries we visited, remember that as a traveler, you can stay in 5 star hotels, as available in the Lake Orta region, or you can stay in the monasteries themselves for about the same price as a hostel. For the practiced nature travelers, information abounds at every stop on campgrounds and nearby kayak trips.

Try these Links:
www.passionedicristo.org
tel 011 432 5040

www.regione.piemonte.it
ppw@regione.piemonte.ita.it

Biella Tourist Board
info@atl.biella.it


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