Tanteo
Tequila Review
By
George Brozowski
First and foremost let
me set to rest the rampant rumor that Tanteo Tequila
is Tila Tequila's older brother. Even though Tila is rumored
to be fond of Tanteo Tequila they are not related
in any way, shape or form.
Upon opening the box and getting my initial glimpse, the bottles
are the first clue that this tequila might just be something
special. They are tall unlike most of the squat tequila bottles
and clear with slight imperfections and bubbles in the glass
implying that they are custom fabricated. The labels have an
aged, old world look. They would definitely draw the eye sitting
on a retail shelf. There are three bottles of flavor infused
Tanteo Tequila; Jalapeno,
Tropical Fruit
and Cocoa.
Why in the world would anyone name a super-premium tequila "Tanteo".
How would two guys like Founder and CEO Jonathan Rojewski and
award winning graphic artist Lincoln Mayne, who co-designed
the intriguing bottle, come up with this name? The name Tanteo
literally translates as testing out or sizing up but I have
the feeling that its slang interpretation of "scoring sexually"
is probably closer to the truth. I would love to share a bottle
of this Tequila with those two and hear that story!!
As I opened the first bottle my nose was assailed by the aromas
of jalapenos.
But I mean this in a good way similar to the mélange
of pepper aromas that greet you when you walk down the aisle
in a grocery store where all the fresh peppers are displayed
out in the open. It was fresh and fruity not chemical or artificial.
That first impression of fruit forward was backed immediately
by the distinct smell of distilled agave, 100% Weber Blue Agave
to be precise, and then the two moved back and forth, front
to back presenting an alternating profile until they finally
blended and settled down in harmony in my snifter and in my
nose.
Snifter, you scoff snifter, of course snifter! Fine tequila
is reverently treated like fine cognac as they deliver an equal
amount of enjoyment; a distinct nose and a flavorful mouth.
Besides, they are both equally and strictly regulated. Tequila
production is regulated by the Consejo Regulador del Tequila
and cognac by Appellation d'origine contrôlée.
Both demand the final product be of certain fruit grown in a
limited and particular geographic area and produced in a very
specified manner. Asparagus distilled in New Jersey won't make
the cut as Tequila but it might pass for Vodka. The ban on flavor
infused tequila was just recently lifted in 2006 which allowed
the legal creation of these Tanteo Tequilas.
After all that I finally took my first sip; crisp, tangy, clean
with distinct Jalapeno fruit taste while on the palate but as
it began the journey down the throat it changed. Not unlike
a stripper removing a demure dress to reveal a hot, sultry outfit
underneath. It became very peppery with a quick and pleasant
eruption of heat settling down to a pleasant tingling memory
on the taste buds. Unlike many other tequila's the mouth memory
is not of acrid alcohol but fresh cut fruity peppers. After
swallowing, as I breathed in and out, I could swear I had just
bitten into a jalapeno pepper and not drunk tequila. The second
and third sips settled down and the initial fire of the first
sip gave way to smoldering warmth punctuated by a brightness
and tingle in the mouth until all that remained was the flavor
of fresh fruit. This is quite a nice overall effect and experience,
and one that invites repeating.
Next I opened the Tropical Fruit
Tequila. I fully expected a nose at least as fruity as the Jalapeno
if not more so, I unfortunately could not immediately discern
any particular fruit. However I appreciated the Tequila bouquet
which was rich and creamy with a very slight acidic high note
that teased for a taste. I waited. After it sat in the snifter
for a while the alcohol settled out of the mix and a scent of
lime and salt finally came to the front. I waited. I was finally
rewarded with a very, very subtle, completely laid back nuance
of tropical fruit. This nose is very subtle with barely a hint
of even the jalapeno.
I could wait no longer. I took a sip. It lay warm and creamy
on my tongue and the more I swirled it in my closed mouth the
more it released its hidden flavor but not so much as to provide
me with an "AHA!" moment when I could taste this,
that or another fruit. It provided just the vaguest notion that
fruit had at some time crossed its path. It wasn't as peppery
as the Jalapeno but still provided that super-premium mouth
feel. It went down warm and immediately settled into a pleasant
sensation that lasted quite a few minutes. When that warmth
subsided there was the vaguest impression that fruit had blown
a kiss in its direction at some point in its life. Throwing
caution to the wind I took a large sip and after I swallowed
I could finally taste warm hints of mango. Their literature
states I should also be able to discern guanabana. Its flavor
is described as a "combination of strawberry and pineapple
with sour citrus flavor notes contrasting with an underlying
creamy flavor reminiscent of coconut or banana". Yeah right!!
All I got was the "creamy" and the rest of it was
make believe to this mouth. At least it didn't taste like chicken.
Still it was quite good. If you take your time with this tropical
tequila you just might coax its fruitiness to show itself.
On to the Cocoa.
The first thing I noticed was its tan color. While the Jalapeno
was the palest of pale - barely green and the Tropical Fruit
was not clear but the held the vaguest hint of creaminess, the
Cocoa was a very faint fawn, an almost transparent taupe, barely
buff, a translucent tan the color of ancient faded brown stained
glass that gives everything viewed through it a brownish-golden
glow. Very interesting!
The nose was up front but gentle. It was definitely reminiscent
of milk chocolate and caramel, sweet but not sugary - a notch
up from subtle - but still smooth warm and inviting. I would
have loved to have taken a bite out of something that smelled
this good but settled for a sip instead. The mouth feel and
taste followed lock step behind the nose. What I had smelled
I tasted. The marriage of the nose and mouth is a very rare
quality in a wine, a scotch or even a cognac as one usually
goes in one direction while the other chooses a complimentary
path. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that's bad but this
was much better. While I held it in my mouth it was delicately
warm, creamy and reminded me of imported European milk chocolate
melting in my mouth. As I swallowed, the peppery Jalapeno snuck
out from its hiding place and reminded me that this was indeed
Tequila. The back of my mouth and throat awoke from its chocolate
induced stupor and a pleasant, warm tingle took over and lingered
a while. That was worth doing again! This could be a pleasant
change of pace from port after dinner and that notion was confirmed
when I paired it with a slice of cheese.
I must admit I'm a bit of a purist and believe premium wines
and liquors should be enjoyed pure and simple for the wonderful
and expensive things they are. I make mixed drinks and cocktails
with lesser quality alcohol. I did give in and made a few cocktails
with this Tequila and they were of course marvelous but as I
drank them I kept thinking I could be using something that cost
half to two-thirds as much. That being said I must admit that
I made martinis with them all and they were perfect and showcased
the quality of the Tequila. I make mine shaken not stirred,
just like James Bond but in this case with nothing else added,
except a lime garnish.
All three flavors get a serious thumbs up.
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