Il Bucranio
Luckily, to sample Apicius recipes, you don't have to translate his Latin. By appointment between mid-March and Christmas retired U.N. interpreter Giulia Passarelli, a disciple of Apicius, will prepare ancient Roman holiday feasts: Liberalia” (March 20 for the vernal equinox), Megalesia” (April for the arrival of spring), Agonalia” (May 21 to protect your home) to name a few, or even a tombside funeral banquet (silicernium)

The ancient Romans ate with their hands while lying on couches. But in her peaceful garden beside a 2nd-century B.C. tomb Giulia serves her guests at two long tables, shaded by canopies and set with modern utensils. Typically her feasts of 12 dishes (usually nine salty and three sweet) are selected from the 100 or so of Apicius' 470 recipes that she's updated.

First comes an array of gusta (appetizers), among them epityrum”(olive pie), puls fabata” (broad bean soup with sauages) and Laganum” (the ancestor of lasagna). They are accompanied by mulsum, honey-spiced white wine made by her wine-historian brother Ernesto. His rosatum (rose and violet wine) accompanies the next course of primae mensa (entrees): isisca” (baked sausage made of differently spiced seafood, chicken or veal sfondilos” (charcoal grilled kebabs of minced artichoke heart wrapped in bacon), sumina assa”(roast sow's udder), murena assa (grilled eel), or betas et porros” (boiled beets and leeks in raisin sauce), among others.

After the primae mensae Ernesto uncorks passum or mulled red wine for the secundae mensae or desserts: fresh fruits in season, dactylos piperatos” (baked caramelized dates stuffed with chopped nuts and dried fruits and wrapped in bacon), and dulcia domestica” or mustei” (several types of unyeasted pastries made of flour, wine, honey, dried fruits, chestnuts, and nuts).

Visitors who don't have time for a silicernium are also welcome. The 5-euro entrance fee includes a visit to the tomb and a refrigeria of mulsum and moretum (garlic-laced cheese spread) and bread, the snack the ancient Romans ate tombside on post-funerary visits.

Via Appia Antica 187A;
tel. 011-39-067857151.
Open by appointment. Groups preferred.

Laurel wreaths, togas, and high priest and

Vestal Virgin vestments available.