Food & Beverage International

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The Winemakers' Cookoff:

A Journey into Paso Robles

By Jason Barlow

Lush green vineyards that stretch out across the landscape running along Highway 101 are the first clue that I'm getting close. Not long after sighting these, exit signs direct me into Paso Robles. The streets have a cozy feel as I pass through the main part of town, moving out into more open spaces along route-46. For a short while, I wind through farmland and the fertile glow of dry grasses before arriving at the Villa Toscana Bed and Breakfast. It is perched on a tiny hill at the end of Buena Vista Road.

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The courtyard is lined with bright quartz tile and flanked by shaded walkways draped with lush twisting vines. From the Cantera Stone fountain, the sound of gentle rippling water fills the open air. Homey groupings of tables sit just to the right. They are perfect for indulging in the early evening spreads put out for the Villa's guests by head chef Richard Grahm. Prepared in traditional Mediterranean style, they are a perfect compliment to an assortment of Martin & Weyrich wines.

Each room comes with a complimentary bottle of Martin & Weyrich wine. Thus, my evening begins standing on my private patio, sipping a crisp, citrusy white, looking out onto rows and rows of ripening vines and the surrounding farmland. It is a view that could rejuvenate anyone after a long drive. After taking in the landscape, I am on to business, sort of.

Just a few minutes down the roadresides the River Oaks Hot Springs and Spa. It is the site of the Winemakers Cook Off, an annual event where the winemakers from the surrounding Paso Robles region gather to BBQ up their best dishes to pair with their favorite wines. This year there are over thirty participants. Even before the 6pm start-time, there is a line. People are eager with anticipation. The locals I chat with while waiting all say that it is their favorite event of the calendar. After a short walk around the grounds, it is easy to see why they enjoy it so much.

The River Oaks property is quite serene, with a tranquil lake that swirls the soft evening breezes and catches the warm evening sun. There are numerous inviting smells that rise up from the grills. Pulled-pork sandwiches, ribs dripping with BBQ sauce, slices of tender steak on garlic bread, jalapeño-poppers, and an assortment of other mouth-watering dishes keep everyone's taste buds happy. Big cabernets, bold zinfandels, full-bodied pinots, and scrumptious blends highlight the regional wines that are available for pairing.

Wandering among the different booths, there is a strong sense of hospitality and family. Everyone is willing to chat. At Eberle's grill, winemaker Ben Mayo comes out to shake elbows (his hands are dirty from cooking). Rich Hartenberger of Midnight Cellars comes out to talk with BBQ sauce spotting his shirt. At the Bianchi booth, winemaker Tom Lane and his daughter pour side-by-side. She goes to school in Sweden, so she is happy to spend the evening with her father, even though she is not officially part of the winery.

Craig Reed and Peter Prince of Martin & Weyrich have just returned from a wine event in Louisiana. They have been up since 2:00 am California time, but they are still present and in high spirits. Just like the locals, they didn't want to miss any of the fun. The pair stands by the smoking grill and chat with me and a couple of the Weyrich children, Andy and Kate. They laugh about family stories. The winery has been around since 1981, making it one of the oldest in the region, so there are plenty of tales.

There was a great amount of excitement when the winery reached its millionth bottle of nebbiolo. Just getting the grape over from the Piedmonte region had been a challenge. One clone they acquired wasn't giving them good color. It turned out to be a Rose clone of a different varietal. The trials of producing good wine were all worth it for Craig. He and the family have a special relationship with Italian varietals. Two years working with his mentor Nick Martin helped Craig refine his winemaking skills and continue the winery's legacy for innovation that has been build since their initial releases. Simply standing next to the smoking grill, chatting away, I can tell how much the place means to everyone, and how that spirit has helped in earning so much praise for their work with Italian varietals. I get to appreciate that ingenuity first hand, as my parting gift is a glass of primitivo from marketing director Maura Osbourn. I savor the lush flavors of red berries and spice as I wander off.

Midway through the evening, a microphone is passed around from booth to booth. The winemakers come on and joke, plugging their dishes and wines, before trying to elicit votes for the people's choice award. Bribes aren't uncommon, and they were often hard to resist. Eberle offered a taste of an 18 year-old cabernet, and Arroyo Robles had rich bite-size pastries to pair with a lovely port. Midnight Cellars eventually took home the award, and I must say, their Beefapalooza was tasty when paired with the bold dark fruit and spice flavors of their Estate Zinfandel.

Once the festivities concluded, people strolled off into the warm night air. I made my short trip back to the Villa, returning to the soothing view of my private patio. My evening ended with a final glass of wine, looking out over the scattered lights of the countryside, with the faint chirp of crickets drifting on the light breezes. Paso Robles has a special sort of charm, a relaxed welcoming feeling of open country. I had only been in town for a day, but it was already clear to me. Paso Robles offered great wine, beautiful surroundings, and interesting people with great stories. Stop by if you have the chance.

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