| The
Valdarno Chicken
Story and Photographs By: Stephen
Ashton
The
next day is another educational forum at the “Laboratory
of Taste,”this time devoted to the free range
breed of Valdarno Chicken and the unique
dishes made from it. Francesca Romana Farina,
who returned to farming after completing studies in archeology,
is now a leader of the Presidium. Francesca
considers herself, and a number of other professionals who
have returned to small family farms in Tuscany, a “custodians
of the breed.”She tells us that this slow growing
chicken was originally raised by the sharecroppers of the
Arno Valley and the hens and eggs actually became a form
of currency. It is a lean chicken with thin skin and runs
freely through the olive groves, vineyards (except during
harvest) and in the forest. It takes at least 10 square
meters of open land for each bird, so the preservation of
the breed also impacts land use in general. Valdarnese eggs
are higher in Omega 3's than commercial eggs.
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The
first dish we taste in the “Laboratory”this
afternoon is a chopped egg, parsley, capers and garlic patê
on toast with olive oil; then chopped chicken liver on toast
and a true Tuscan treasure, Collo di Pollo Ripieno or Stuffed
Chicken Neck.
The
Collo di Pollo Ripieno recipe is fairly simple, but great
care must be taken to not tear the chicken neck skin.
You
need a chicken neck with the head on to be traditional.
Tie the beak closed. Singe off any pinfeathers and debone
the neck. In a bowl mix an egg, a pinch of salt and nutmeg.
Then add pre-browned finely minced chicken livers, parsley,
garlic, lemon peel, the soft part of a thick slice of Tuscan
bread which has been soaked in milk, and a healthy spoonful
of parmigiano reggiano. Mix it well and CAREFULLY stuff
the neck and sew the base closed. Simmer the works in boiling
broth for 30 to 40 minutes, let it cool and then slice and
serve cold.
Our
next dish is a fine Medieval cream chicken soup, Zuppa di
Tarlati, is made with the Valdarno Chicken from a recipe
of Guido Tarlati, 13th century bishop and fierce nobleman
of Arezzo. Serve hot with a toasted slice of Tuscan bread
and extra virgin olive oil.
And
the Laboratory concludes with a serving of the delicious
Pistoia Pecorino Raw Sheep Milk Cheeses in three variations:
Pecorino Fresco,”a “fresh”cheese aged
only 7 to 20 days. It has to be made within 2 hours of the
sheep's milking because the milk is un-pasteurized. The
distinctly flavored Pecorino Abbucciato”- aged 35
to 80 days; and Pecorino Asserbo”which is harder and
aged from 3 to 18 months. The fresh cheeses are excellent
with bitter Chestnut Honey while the more aged cheeses are
wonderful paired with a Chianti Classico or Brunello di
Montalcino. It is particularly interesting to note that
the cheeses differ according to the seasons because of what
grasses are available to the mountain Massese sheep.
We
manage to drive down the wine road a bit to an elegant Villa,
the Madonnina del Chiaro Damiani that
houses a small winery where travelers can find rooms as
part of Tuscany's Agriturismo”services. Some of the
areas best views are seen from their well appointed rooms.
As the day turns to night we drive to the grand finale of
the event...
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