Best in French Light Cooking
with Jean Francois Meteigner

By Bonnie Carroll

Jean Francois Meteigner talking turkey

Several years ago, at the twenty-fifth anniversary party for "The Moulin," world renowned chef, Roger Verge made a joke about new wave of light French cooking in Los Angeles. He said, "Where's se butter?" Everyone laughed because we all understand how important huge amounts of butter and cream are to great French chefs. However, Jean Francois Meteigner says "who can eat that?" In an effort to accommodate the needs of serious California cholesterol counters Meteigner has created innovative and delicious recipes using very little butter.

Jean Francois Meteigner chef/owner of La Cachette restaurant in Los Angeles, is a master when it comes to preparing light and delicious French food. Throughout the year this very talented and highly entertaining chef offers cooking classes in his kitchen to assist those wishing to prepare special holiday menus and shares his short cuts to serving and planning perfect brunches and dinners.

I selected to try his Thanksgiving Dinner, however lessons are offered for most holiday meals throughout the year. Jean started with the turkey of course! The Diestel Turkey with Dressing was paired with Pumkin Soup & Spites; Celery Root Salad; Carrot Salad; Beet Salad; Stuffed Turkey and Gravy, Corn Gratin; Yam and Butternut Squash Mash and Pecan Pie. The cooking class, which includes a sit down lunch with wine, took about 3 hours and the cost is $100.00 per person.

Chef Meteigner's own unique style with food often blows-out historic concepts and traditions regarding food preparation. He does not use trussing or trivets when cooking the bird, which surprises many of his students. However, because he serves at least 18 delicious birds every Thanksgiving Day in his restaurant, no one questions his tried and true methods.

The fine art of cutting vegetables, including corn for the corn gratin, was also of interest to his audience. A special lesson in how to make a perfect flower and butter, white or blond roux, for white sauce and a brown roux for brown sauce was helpful. The white sauce is used in the Corn Gratin. Jean explained that his favorite meal is boiled cauliflower, rolled in endive with ham and covered with white sauce and cheese. According to Jean, "this is something my mother makes that I really love."

He warned never to use canned beets when cooking. The best way to cook the beets, he said, is to boil them or rub them in oil and bake them. Then drop the beets in ice water and the skin will fall off. Chop the beets, shallots and onions, add salt, pepper and Francisco Santiago Raspberry Vinaigrette with Mosto Olive Oil; hard boiled eggs are optional. I made this recipe for my family at Thanksgiving and it was outstanding, while simple to prepare.

This charming and talented chef has a great sense of humor and a true love of food and flavor combinations. He says "think about flavor, try to visualize flavor combinations and blend them. Soon it will be very natural...it only took me twenty-five years!" He laughed heartily near the end of the class and commented that his staff arrives following his cooking classes to set up for the dinner seating and they cannot find one clean pot. When he suggested he might stop these classes, the group moaned with disappointment.

Jean and his wife Allie Ho are expecting their second child, and met each other when she came to work for him several years ago in the restaurant. Allie Ho was our charming hostess for the day and provided us with recipes and handouts to use as Jean gave his hands-on instructions.

Chef's Recipe:
A Perfect French Style Thanksgiving