OCTOBER 6, 2010

Gelato Bordello
Gourmet ice cream and dessert wine at Gelatovino

Drink up your dessert with creative ice cream flavors at Gelatovino.

Brought to you by George Abou-Daoud - the man who's turned Sunset between Highland and the 101 into a major dining destination with Bowery, Mercantile, Mission Cantina and others - this purple-paneled room with gilded mirrors looks like the set of a Prince video circa 1984.

Inside, you'll find hip, non-touristy types poring over cases of two dozen gelatos with flavors from the sacred (chocolate) to the profane (bourbon).

The dozen after-dinner wines range from ports to bubblies, and some scoops incorporate alcohol for a one-two punch of booze and sweetness. We dug Downtown Brown, which mixes in North Coast Brewing Company's ale for a creamy, beer-float flavor.

5940 Sunset Blvd.,
Hollywood (323) 469-2100

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Parking: Valet
Scene: Chill, post-date couples getting their scoops on
Best bets: Earl Grey; Downtown Brown; Bulleit bourbon
Hot seat: The plush, baroque chairs next to the Delancey's patio
Do dinner first: It's sandwiched between Delancey and Mission Cantina (and Arby's is on the corner, for you big spenders).
Nearby: Delancey; Mission Cantina; Roscoe's

The Rundown's restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits by reporters, not press releases.

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