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The Valdarno Chicken
Story and Photographs By: Stephen Ashton

The next day is another educational forum at the “Laboratory of Taste,”this time devoted to the free range breed of Valdarno Chicken and the unique dishes made from it. Francesca Romana Farina, who returned to farming after completing studies in archeology, is now a leader of the Presidium. Francesca considers herself, and a number of other professionals who have returned to small family farms in Tuscany, a “custodians of the breed.”She tells us that this slow growing chicken was originally raised by the sharecroppers of the Arno Valley and the hens and eggs actually became a form of currency. It is a lean chicken with thin skin and runs freely through the olive groves, vineyards (except during harvest) and in the forest. It takes at least 10 square meters of open land for each bird, so the preservation of the breed also impacts land use in general. Valdarnese eggs are higher in Omega 3's than commercial eggs.

Click on Images for Captions

The first dish we taste in the “Laboratory”this afternoon is a chopped egg, parsley, capers and garlic patê on toast with olive oil; then chopped chicken liver on toast and a true Tuscan treasure, Collo di Pollo Ripieno or Stuffed Chicken Neck.

The Collo di Pollo Ripieno recipe is fairly simple, but great care must be taken to not tear the chicken neck skin.

You need a chicken neck with the head on to be traditional. Tie the beak closed. Singe off any pinfeathers and debone the neck. In a bowl mix an egg, a pinch of salt and nutmeg. Then add pre-browned finely minced chicken livers, parsley, garlic, lemon peel, the soft part of a thick slice of Tuscan bread which has been soaked in milk, and a healthy spoonful of parmigiano reggiano. Mix it well and CAREFULLY stuff the neck and sew the base closed. Simmer the works in boiling broth for 30 to 40 minutes, let it cool and then slice and serve cold.

Our next dish is a fine Medieval cream chicken soup, Zuppa di Tarlati, is made with the Valdarno Chicken from a recipe of Guido Tarlati, 13th century bishop and fierce nobleman of Arezzo. Serve hot with a toasted slice of Tuscan bread and extra virgin olive oil.

And the Laboratory concludes with a serving of the delicious Pistoia Pecorino Raw Sheep Milk Cheeses in three variations: Pecorino Fresco,”a “fresh”cheese aged only 7 to 20 days. It has to be made within 2 hours of the sheep's milking because the milk is un-pasteurized. The distinctly flavored Pecorino Abbucciato”- aged 35 to 80 days; and Pecorino Asserbo”which is harder and aged from 3 to 18 months. The fresh cheeses are excellent with bitter Chestnut Honey while the more aged cheeses are wonderful paired with a Chianti Classico or Brunello di Montalcino. It is particularly interesting to note that the cheeses differ according to the seasons because of what grasses are available to the mountain Massese sheep.

We manage to drive down the wine road a bit to an elegant Villa, the Madonnina del Chiaro Damiani that houses a small winery where travelers can find rooms as part of Tuscany's Agriturismo”services. Some of the areas best views are seen from their well appointed rooms. As the day turns to night we drive to the grand finale of the event...

 

Other Great Links
Antichi Sapori di Toscana

To The Ark
The Valdarno Chicken

Roventino

Antichi Sapori di Toscana, The Slow Food Way Ancient Tastes of Tuscany PDF

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