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The
Nine Bites Appetizer arrives. Its reputation precedes
it.
Set on a grand square stoneware charger each mysterious,
tantalizing bite is presented on its own miniature platform,
three squares across, three squares down. Anticipation
abounds.
Which bite first? Does the order create the experience? |
Jody
Dentons' Alchemy
Jody Denton creates gold from
one-part Asia and three-parts France
By Wendy
Musk and Nick Zielke
It
is not enough to simply attend Azie, celebrity chef, Jody Denton's
nine month old sensation. One must be present, for at the pinnacle
of the competitive San Francisco dining scene, with a hot, new
dot.com crowd, and their desire for sense heightening experiences,
this provocative concept chef has created The Nine Bites, and
everybody wants one.
An
element of delicious danger permeates the concept of The
Nine Bites Appetizer. One intense moment and the subtle
infusion of flavors is a memory. Focus on the artful synergy.
A deep French theme countpoints subtle Pan-Asian influences.
Denton is a virtuoso, and true to form, his genius is grounded
in practice.
"The
interesting thing about this dish are the comments we heard
from the kitchen staff when we were going through out grand
opening. They were all cringing and saying, 'Oh, no. We're going
to die.' It went on the menu anyway, and it was very hard the
first couple of weeks until we ironed out some of the ways to
make it easier. Then, other chefs would come in and I'd hear
their comments through the grapevine.
'The
Nine Bites is really great but, I guarantee it won't be on the
menu in two months.' Denton smiles. "Here we are nine months
down the road and it's our number one selling appetizer. I love
seeing sixty of those fly out of the kitchen on a busy night."
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Tuna
Sashimi Roll with Truffle Ponzu |
Among
the Nine Bites' ardent fans, favorites have emerged. Tuna
Sashimi Roll with Truffle Ponzu with its whisper thin layers
of sashimi quality tuna over shiso and basil leaves, avocado
slices and radish sprouts rolled in a translucence of Japanese
cucumber and embellished with truffle ponzu is most noteworthy.
"The unlikely pairing of truffles and soy in the ponzu
happens to work as well as any combination that I know of. It's
like tomatoes and basil. It just works." Denton comments.
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Parfait
of Spicy Hamachi Tartare
with Wasabi Mousse |
Parfait of Spicy Hamachi Tartare with Wasabi Mousse also
express a french/japanese fusion carrying over elemental details,
the avocado and shiso leaves, details both in a 3" x 2"
circlet of delicately seasoned sushi rice, hamachi mixture and
wasabi mousse. Atop, a dollop of caviar and a drizzle of lemon
olive oil and a moment to anticipate the remaining seven delights
including Crispy Shrimp and Sweet Sausage Noodle Bundles;
Beef Carpaccio with Sprout Salad, Peanuts and Lime;
and Grilled Baby Back Ribs with Green Onion, Chilies and
Lime.
