By Staff Writer
|
Andrea
Luca Rossi, Chef/Owner Mark Allen and Pastry Chef David
James of Le Soir |
In
the mood for exceptional contemporary French cuisine without all
the pomp and circumstance? Ive got just the place! Le Soir, a fabulous find outside bustling downtown Boston,
is the creation of Chef/Owner Mark Allen. Chef Allen, a CIA graduate
and a native of Massachusetts, opened this posh French eatery
in December of 2001 after honing his skills on the West Coast
and garnering numerous accolades as the Executive Chef of The
Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in Boston. No longer
the areas best kept secret, Le Soir entices their diners
with heavenly flavors and textures as seen in the lobster and
fennel profiterole with whipped dill cream, crispy veal sweetbreads
with warm honey mustard vinaigrette, and twice baked stuffed potato
with crab and lemon crème fraiche. Pan roasted whole monkfish
and the slow cooked rabbit potpie are must try dishes, as they
will no doubt lure one back for an encore presentation. Pastry
Chef David James, formerly of No. 9 Park in Boston, adds to the indulgent experience with his signature
winter cobbler, apple French toast with cider sabayon, and spiced
chocolate pot de crème. Art culinaire, Andrea Luca
Rossi, is the charming front of the house manager who
runs a professional dining room and is extremely knowledgeable
of food, wine, and what it takes to craft an exceptional dining
experience.
Le
Soir
51 Lincoln Street, Newton Highlands, MA
617.965.3100
Upon
returning from Italy after several years of cooking, eating, watching,
and learning what Italian culture and food was all about, Chef
Mark White joined restaurateur Steve Hanson of B.R. Guest Restaurants and opened Fiamma
Osteria as Executive Chef/Partner of this sexy SoHo trattoria.
White says, "I believe that with Italian cuisine, less is
more. I look at what I can get out of a dish, rather than what
I can put in." And what he puts into his dishes are the freshest
of Italian and American ingredients. The two-story space is a
chic mixture of rustic dark wood furnishings, black leather, and
orange and red tones. Wine bottles frame the restaurant with numerous
wine racks and rare vintage presentations. A temperature controlled
fromage case is featured in the dining room, and boasts creamy
imported and domestic farmhouse cheeses. A few of my favorite
dishes include the blue fin tuna carpaccio with salty capers,
olives and citrus oil, Muscovy duck salad, and sautéed
sea scallops with baby artichokes and black trumpets. For a pasta
course, I gravitate towards the "stracci," wide ribbon
spinach pasta with braised rabbit Bolognese and the garganelli
with prosciutto, spring peas and truffle butter. Out of the wood-burning
oven come a sage scented veal chop, rosemary-roasted squab, and
a mouthwatering breast of chicken with morel mushrooms. All dishes
are served with wonderful al dente vegetables, as seen in the
wild striped sea bass with fava beans, fennel and brussel sprouts
and the East coast halibut with braised red chard and asparagus. Pastry Chef Elizabeth Katz prepares classic Italian
desserts. Semifredo, tortas, and sorbetti vary in flavors according
to the season, as fruit is a major component for most Italian
desserts. Another major component at Fiamma is
their wine list. We rely on Master Sommelier Greg Harrington to
guide us through the diverse list of family-owned, artisanal vineyards
as well as the more popular or unique wine selections.
Fiamma
Osteria
206 Spring Street, New York
212.653.0100
FYI,
after five and a half years, Harvard Squares popular Grafton
Street restaurant and gathering place has re-opened in
a bigger and better space merely a block away from the original
location. The new 5,000 square foot space is twice the size as
the original. Likened to that of a traditional Irish pub, owners Patrick and Peter Lee, Gerry
Sheerin, and Sean Kennedy, have sectioned
the restaurant into various cozy spots using a clever table layout,
multi levels, and strategically hung draperies. A lively bar scene
is the norm at this college student / tourist destination, but
the dining room tends to keep up the pace as well. Executive
Chef Kenny Jervis offers the typical pub fare finger
foods out of necessity mostly but takes the menus
up several notches with such items as mussels steamed with tomato
confit and roasted garlic, steak frites, lamb stew, seafood linguini,
and Dublin style fish and chips. Burgers, over-stuffed sandwiches,
salads, and pizzas are a perfect match for Graftons extensive
beer selection and wines by the glass.
Grafton
Street, Harvard Square
1230 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, MA
617.497.0400
A true New York experience is the Bull and Bear at the majestic Waldorf
Astoria Hotel in the heart of midtown. Opened in 1960,
this testosterone driven bar and steakhouse has long been a favorite
haunt of denizens of the financial world, as seen by the stock
market symbols throughout. The bronze bull and bear and the electronic
ticker tape are a dead give-away to the type of conversation
and martinis that are served up here. Home to "the
best martini in town," the scene consists of a smoke-filled
bar with live piano music, men in suits with loosened ties, and
a female or two scattered about. The menu is a carnivores
dream. Large portions of charbroiled filet mignon with béarnaise,
prime rib, and Porterhouse steak are served with silky creamed
spinach, sautéed mushrooms and onions, and crispy hash
brown potatoes. Icy raw bar selections include jumbo shrimp, clams
on the half shell and lobster and crab cocktail. Executive
Chef Eric Kaplan also offers scrumptious crab cakes,
shrimp Creole over rice, and dessert staples, such as New York
style cheesecake, chocolate mousse, and crème brule. While
the city is constantly progressing and giving birth to new restaurants,
its nice to know that some things never change
Bull
and Bear
49th Street and Lexington Avenue, New York
212.872.4900
Spire,
located in Bostons swanky new boutique hotel, Nine
Zero, is poised to become the Ladder Districts
newest darling. Suspended one level above Tremont Street, across
the street from Boston Common, Spire is an elegant
French inspired restaurant under the direction of Executive
Chef / Partner Jeffrey Evert (formerly of the Hotel
Bel-Air in Los Angeles) and Chef de Cuisine Matthew
Morello (The Federalist, Boston). Appetizers
include roasted quail with chanterelle mushrooms, seared diver
scallop nicoise with golden osetra caviar and quail egg, and a
trio of king salmon-cured terrine with smoked flan and tartare.
Poached Tasmanian sea trout is served with mushroom crepe and
petite lentils and the Georgetown Farms bison with sweet potato
jam and sour cherry chocolate sauce is a truly inspired dish.
Our flight of sorbets was just the thing to complete our meal
and consisted of brilliant flavors of sweet basil, blood orange,
banana, and espresso. The restaurant design has luminosity to
it. Floor-to-ceiling windows, artisan-painted walls, plush furnishings,
and a distinctive glass-enclosed display kitchen add to the allure
of this sleek space. The Bar at Spire boasts
glass shelves and oversized stemware while a young professional
crowd sipping on creative cocktails and noshing from the "small
plates" menu items can be seen. Both the hotel and the restaurant
will be a great retreat for people "in the know."
Spire
Nine Zero Hotel
90 Tremont Street, Boston, MA,
617.772.0202
"Where Tuscany meets Provence
in Rockefeller Plaza," is the catch phrase for Medi,
a Mediterranean style restaurant in the heart of the city. And
so it is - the brainchild of Roger Verge of the
world famous Le Moulin de Mougins and Roberto
Ruggeri of Bice Ristorante. The two have collaborated
on a culinary venture fusing their talent, passion, and love of
their native cuisine. Medi is an oasis of sorts, situated among
numerous quick-fix / chain eateries, it stands out in a sea of
busy corporate mid-towners and awe-struck tourists. The large
outdoor patio is the restaurants best advertisement, especially
in a city where it takes an icy snowstorm to stop diners from
eating outside! The interior is energized with vibrant sunflower
yellow walls and sky blue Provencal fabrics. Medi has a fabulous menu perfect for sharing with a group of people,
as you will want to taste as many flavors as possible. Cured
meats, house made pates, imported cheeses, crusty bread, and roasted
olives were a sinful prelude to deep fried squid, shrimp, zucchini
and eggplant served with pepper and onion aioli. We dove into
our spicy pennette pasta with tomatoes and garlic, and savored
every bite of the agnolotti Toscani stuffed with veal and spinach
and tossed with mushroom sauce. A classic Bouillabaisse had lobster,
rockfish, sea bass, John Dory, and dorade swimming in a flavorful
rouille. Roasted poussin with ratatouille and beef filet with
brandy raisin sauce and chick pea cake were a few of our favorites.
Dessert was a festival of sweets that included a crème
brule trio, apple tart with figs and vanilla bean ice cream, and
a decadent white chocolate mascarpone Tiramisu. Whats
left to tell after that?
Medi
45 Rockefeller Plaza, New York
212.399.8888
In keeping with the superlative
service, excellent quality, and posh environments The
Four Seasons Hotel is recognized for around the world,
it shouldnt surprise one to find the ultimate dining experience
at Aujourdhui, located at their Boston
property overlooking the Public Garden. Numerous industry professionals
and my fellow "foodies" have been urging me to experience
this gem of a restaurant. Executive Chef Edward Gannon and newly appointed Pastry Chef Christopher Feyt offer a seasonal New American menu with obvious French influences.
The indulgence begins with the luxurious dining room lined with
warm oak paneling and potted palms. The sophisticated artwork,
white table linens, antique china and elegant stemware set the
tone for a meal fit for a king and queen.
|
Executive
Chef Edward Gannon of Aujourdhui |
Their
tasting menu (a food writers favorite) is billed as "Aujourdhui
Ultimate Dinner," and that it is. Our six course wine
dinner began with a glass of Louis Roderer Brut and was coupled
with a crabmeat and tuna roulade with radish and blood orange
salad. Seared foie gras with chanterelle mushrooms was teamed
with a crisp sweet French sauternes. We swooned over the Simi
Reserve Chardonnay that was teamed with potato crusted European
Bass with porcinis, leeks and chianti-cassis emulsion. Next came
tenderloin of veal with truffled potato mousseline served with
an Artese Carneros Pinot Noir. An exciting cheese course graced
our table next, which was perfect with our various "left
over" wines from the previous courses. Grand finale - Grand
Marnier soufflé with a Remy Martin toast! But, of course
Aujourd’hui
Four Season’s Hotel
200 Boylston Street, Boston
617.426.7199
Dos Caminos has captured the true spirit of genuine south of the border cuisine.
You wont find mass produced, Tex-Mex, cheesy fried concoctions
here. Executive Chef Scott Linquist, and Executive Sous Chef Ross
Gill, prepares authentic regional Mexican cuisine with a more
sophisticate twist. Guacamole is prepared tableside according
to your taste ours was perfectly "heated" with
fresh crushed jalapeno peppers. The wild mushroom tamale was a
great mix of earthy mushrooms and roasted cornmeal filling, while
the chipolte beef taquitos were full of tender braised meat with
a crispy tortilla shell and covered in rich mole sauce. Tacos
run the gamut from ancho red snapper, roasted chicken and pork,
to Maine lobster or achiote grilled shrimp. The chile relleno
is hall-of-fame worthy. This fire roasted pepper is stuffed with
sautéed chicken and manchego cheese and coated with a pancake
like batter, keeping the outer crust soft, the pepper al dente
and radiating just enough heat to create a wonderful taste sensation.
Grilled items (a la parilla) show off the chefs knowledge
of various Mexican spices, marinades, and sauces. The large space
(over 250 seats) is energized with burnt orange and chocolate
brown colors, hand carved wood (think tree stump) lighting fixtures,
and cozy booth seating. FYI, there are over 150 tequilas available
just in case you were interested.
Dos
Caminos
373 Park Avenue South, New York
212.294.1000
Southern-inspired home cooking,
bold flavors, an energizing neighborhood atmosphere, and seasoned
restaurateurs Andy and Gretchen Husbands = Rouge,
the South Ends latest dining destination created by the
Husbands (Tremont 647), co-owner Peter White, and Chef Salvatore
Fritensky. The small menu serves up big flavors as tasted in the
spicy barbecue shrimp appetizer, of which I couldnt soak
up enough sauce with the garlicky toast points they were served
with. Fried green tomatoes actually taste like something here
and the house-made Boudin sausage over frisee with Creole mustard
dressing can be addicting.
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|
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Spicy
Barbecue Shrimp Appetizer |
Homemade
Boudin Sausage over Frisee |
Steamed
Cod with Littleneck Clams |
The
Chefs experiences throughout North Carolina and New Orleans
are evident, as seen with the pecan crusted catfish with wild
mushroom ragu, lacquered pork shoulder with apples, turnips and
braised cabbage, steamed cod with littleneck clams and potatoes
steamed in roasted garlic and Dixie beer broth, and the crunchy
fried chicken with melt-in-your-mouth buttermilk biscuits, collard
greens, black-eyed pea and ham hock gravy. The Husbands
do a fabulous job with their wine list and specialty cocktails,
always offering their loyal clientele something new and exciting.
Rouge
480 Columbus Avenue, Boston
617.867.0600
Set in the ground floor and basement of a
1909 tenement building lives Suba, a contemporary
Spanish restaurant overflowing with Latin influences, tastes,
sights, and sounds. New Yorks newest chef sensation Luis
Bollo continues to raise the bar of this exotic cuisine by infusing
his Basque roots with French culinary techniques. Bollo, the consulting
chef, along with Chef de Cuisine Alain Allaire, create flavorful
works of art for the first floor tapas lounge, the basement grotto,
a dining island set in an illuminated rippling pool of water,
and the skylight room, a vibrant dining room that transforms itself
into the citys hippest Latin nightclub. Chef Bollos
signature dishes include boquerones (marinated fresh anchovies),
piquillo peppers stuffed with ginger marinated tuna, grilled squid
with bell pepper chimichurri, and various ceviches, which are
always tangy and sensational. Braised lamb shank with white beans,
grilled Atlantic salmon with shitake mushrooms in a vegetable
and bacon broth, as well as the roasted eggplant cannelloni with
Idiazabal cheese are some other menu stand-outs. Chef Bollo is
also responsible for 2 of Connecticuts most notable Spanish
restaurants; Meigas in Norwalk and Ibiza is New Haven, where he,
and owner Ignacio Blanco, have brought this beautiful cuisine
to light.
Suba
109 Ludlow Street at Delancey, New York
212.982.5714
Upon driving five hours through a snowstorm
from New York to Cambridge, Zephyr On
The Charles, located at The Hyatt Regency Hotel, was
a site to be seen and savored. The contemporary lounge/bar/restaurant
set one floor above the lobby overlooking the (frozen) Charles
River and Boston Skyline, was a welcome refuge after my arduous
trip. I sank into my lounge chair and enjoyed a well-deserved
martini while scooping out the art deco interior. Vibrant colors,
floor to ceiling windows, and Zephyrs cool
mystique quickly transported me into a comfortable zone. The "Small
Plates" and "Big Plates" menu is an eclectic array
of tapas style tastes and textures, ideal for grazing and sharing.
I plunged right in to a smoked duck and Jarlsberg quesadilla with
roasted pepper salsa. My martini was deservingly consumed and
my dinner companion had just appeared. We were put in the hands
of Chef Brad Ozerdem, who, luckily for us, had a slow dining room
that night due to the storm, and was able to spend some time with
us after preparing several of his signature dishes. "Exotic
Mushroom Pasta" was a delicate sauté of wild mushrooms,
truffle butter and al dente linguini. The braised halibut in tarragon
broth was aromatic and came with Israeli cous cous. One of our
favorite dishes was the ginger barbeque beef short rib served
with sautéed garlicky spinach. A surprisingly delicious
and unique dish was the portabello and green peppercorn meatloaf.
The thick juicy slices were smothered in mushroom ragout and came
with herb-mashed potatoes perfect on a cold winters
night. Also perfect was the Mission Fig pudding with warm caramel
and whipped cream so delicious in fact, I ordered some
for breakfast the next morning to have with my coffee!
Zephyr
On The Charles
575 Memorial Drive, Cambridge
617-441-6510
Craigie
Street Bistrot has to be one of the areas best-kept
secrets. Off the beaten path of Harvard Square, tucked into a
tiny side street on the cellar level of an exclusive apartment
building, Chef/Owner Tony Maws has created a humble bistro that
offers thoughtfully prepared French cuisine in a friendly setting.
Tonys Mom greeted us at the door and his friends (waitstaff)
took care of us throughout the night. Excited about the Trimbach
Pinot Blanc by the glass, we began with Coquillage of razor clams,
cockles, and mahogany clams simmered in local Britanny butter
and Serrano ham. The duck rillettes and foie gras were absolute
heaven flavorful, smooth, and spiked with brandy
and served with all the right accoutrements. The market salad
is not what one would expect. This is no leafy heap. This was
a seasonal mélange of blanched and raw vegetables (yellow
carrots, turnips, beets, watermelon), bursting with their individual
flavors, and merely tossed with olive oil, salt and pepper. Pan-roasted
sea scallops were large and tender and served with sweet Maine
shrimp, cream of celery root and blood oranges. Red-Chile marinated
skirt steak came with grilled bone marrow, a tasty pleasure. "Hen
of the Woods" was a vegetarians dream dish. Meaty hedgehog
mushrooms were sautéed with winter vegetables and yellow
split peas, making this devout carnivore a believer! Silky crème
caramel was a sweet ending to this delightful experience.
Craigie
Street Bistro
5 Craigie Circle, Harvard Square, Cambridge
617.497.551