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RESTAURANTS & CHEFS

By Grace Ann Walden

Grace Ann Asks Great Chefs
What They Think of Restaurant Reviewers

Our question this month should give the public and those working in the hospitality industry something to talk about. There is nothing more controversial than restaurant reviews. The public suspects reviewers are recognized on the take or have no taste. Chefs shiver in their clogs when they know an influential reviewer is in the house.

There is no other industry, other than aspects of the entertainment industry that is regularly and publicly reviewed, rated and or flogged. And even a Broadway show has tryouts in the boonies before opening night. Not so with restaurants, although some principled reviewers do give new restaurants a few weeks to get their act together.

Since reviewers, some of whom couldn’t boil an egg, regularly give restaurateurs advice on how to run their businesses, we thought we’d ask chefs all over the world, to impart some advice to restaurant reviewers.

THere are their Answers.
Matthew Gordon is the chef of Haute Cabriere Cellar Restaurant, Franschhoek, in South Africa. The award-winning Haute Cabriere Cellar Restaurant overlooks one of the most beautiful valleys in the world. The restaurant’s wines come from the Pinot Noir vineyard on the slopes immediately below, and its unusual menu has been designed by Gordon to complement the vineyard’s acclaimed Pierre Jourdan and Haute Cabrière wines.

Here’s what he had to say:
“I think it is important to know that in a lot of cases a food critic is dealing with someone’s livelihood, as chefs often own their own restaurants.

Mistakes do happen in the best of businesses, but millions can read a damning article. If you have a bad meal in someone’s restaurant, I think it is important to give it a second look before slagging it off.”


Kerry Heffernan, with her partner Wendy Levy, who have 35 combined years experience in the restaurant business, own Autumn Moon Café in Oakland, California. Heffernan has cheffed in some of the top restaurants in the Bay Area, including heading up the kitchen in the Palace Hotel in San Francisco.

Here’s Heffernan’s Views:
“Well, I don’t know a lot about writing or criticism, but I know what I like. I like it when a food critic is also a good writer. I’d like to see reviewers speak about why they may have been disappointed in a meal from a basics perspective. In other words, was the dish executed the way it was described, was hot food served hot, seasoned, and balanced from first bite to the last? I’d like to see a more analytical approach. Many times I’ve been to a restaurant where I personally didn’t enjoy the food but I could appreciate the skill, imagination and hard work that went into the execution of the dish.”

 


Todd English currently has over a dozen restaurants spread between New England and Las Vegas. His Olives restaurant, which he opened in 1989, has been a consistent favorite in Boston. English is often seen on television, and is working on a new program called “Todd Cooks.” He is the author of The Olives Table, The Figs

Table, and The Olives Dessert Table. Here is what he had to say:
“The first thing to remember is that reviews are subjective. I have had good and bad reviews sometimes for the same restaurant, so you need to take it with a grain of salt. Sometimes the critics really annoy me, when they don’t understand the food and don’t do their research to learn about it. After all, it’s their job to educate themselves on a cuisine or ingredient. I tell my staff and myself that we don’t do what we do to please the critics. I got into this business because I love to cook and that will never change. It’s still the juice I live on.”

 

Sally Clarke owns Clarke’s Restaurant, a food shop by the same name and Clarke’s Bakery (wholesale) all in London. Sally Clarke has been actively involved in cooking since her early teens. After attending school in Guildford, followed by a diploma in hotel & catering at Croydon Technical College, she studied at the Cordon Bleu School in Paris.

This is her advice for Restaurant Critics:
“Please arrive at the restaurant in good heart and in a good mood with your partner/guest. As all criticism is “objective,” it is important that the reviewer views everything in the fairest light. It may be awful food, ghastly décor and appalling service, but at least the review would be written in good faith rather than with an axe to grind.




The Sicilian-born Nick Stellino, has published “Nick Stellino’s Family Kitchen, the companion to his PBS series which he is about to start filming. It will air in 2003. He first came to prominence with his PBS cooking show, “Cucina Amore” one of the most popular of all PBS cooking shows.

Stellino echoes Sally Clarke: “Critics need to relax, have a glass of wine...and also take into consideration what would the neighbors say about this restaurant - how does it fit into the community. I think they should write reviews so that people can understand what they are saying. Sometimes, I think they’re just trying to show how clever they are.”

 


Elizabeth Dougherty, has been on both sides. Currently, she is a freelance food writer for the Tampa Tribune in Florida, but in the past she did catering.

“Although I enjoyed catering and a year of formal culinary classes, my true love has always been the written word. While transitioning into feature writing, I read every food feature possible. Culinary happenings, history and, of course, restaurant reviews became the staples of my literary diet.

Today’s food critics seem to show an increased sense of the power they wield. Sometimes what they write means the difference between profit and loss or even between a business living or dying. I often ponder the reason for writing a negative review. Would busy people rather take the time to read about where TO eat rather than where NOT to waste their time? I tend to think so.”


And finally, restaurateur Sam Arnold, who also has been on both sides of the fence.
In his long career, he’s been both a magazine and newspaper restaurant critic (both Denver Post and Rocky Mountain News), a radio food show host and TV show host. On the other side of the coin, he operated his restaurant The Fort since 1963 with a 13-year time out when he thought he’d sold it.

Here is his manifesto or should we say observations:
“Be anonymous.

Don’t review total disasters. They will die soon enough without your help.

If the bread and butter or oil are wonderful, chances are the meal will also be good.

Check the appearance of the rest rooms. Watch the handling of silverware by waitstaff.

Notice smiles and eye contact (or lack thereof) of host/hostess greeter, server and bussers.

Have sufficient food prep knowledge to know what THEY’RE doing. Can you identify herbs and spices? What is the chef attempting to do? Was he/she successful?
Try eating either very early or very late to see if staff is able to be up to speed before or after the rush. First customers are often the most poorly served.

Give the operator some hope. It’s hard enough being in business without being flogged.

Be dead accurate on prices and items of importance. One magazine reviewer, who obviously had never been to my restaurant, stated that The Fort was an hour’s drive from town. It is 22 minutes from the heart of downtown in 5 o’clock traffic. I’m sure that that comment cost us thousands of dollars.”

Comments were edited for space considerations.


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