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REVIEW


Duca del Frassino: Thinking Outside the Box

By Michael Perkins

Boxed Wine is one of those things people don't seem to talk about. Sure, they'll enjoy it in the comfort of their own homes, away from the view of others. It's a bit like the pop song you keep hearing on the radio and can't help but bop your head along. You don't really want to admit to liking it. You know there's better music, but sometime a bad (good) pop song is just what you need. Thus, even though it may bring me shame or at least a bit of teasing from the "actual wine staff", I'll admit to keeping boxed wine around sometimes.

With most boxed wines I've had, you can tell, they're not trying very hard. The contents is often a bit flat and rather uninteresting. That's been okay. I've known what I've been getting into. (That maybe why our usual wine tasting panel asked me to write this. I can get over the fact that the wine is in a box.) I've always wondered why no one has ever really tried to improve the quality of boxed wine. After all, it's a far better seal than any bottle. The wine stays fresh for much longer, and you don't have an issue with bottles being corked. While I don't think we're going to see $100 boxed wine any time soon, I think people are starting to get over the stigma of drinking wine from a box.

That's where the people at Duca del Frassino come in. They recently brought to market Priemum Italian wines in a box: A red wine that's a blend of 80% Cabernet and 20% Corvina and a white wine that's 80% Garganega and 20% Pinot Grigio. While our panel of wine snobs, who swirl and spit, and over analyze everything they drink, were skeptical, I had no reservations.

The white wine is light and a bit floral, so it's ideal for hot summer days. And while it's not the most interesting wine I've ever tried, I found it very drinkable. When I shared some with our wine panel, even they admitted, it wasn't bad at all.

The red wine is also quite light. It may say Cabernet on the label. Don't think about that. It's not your typical Cabernet. There's a brightness to the wine, with lively red berry flavors that make it very accessible. It would never hold up to a steak dinner, but it would work quite nicely with turkey sandwiches at a summer picnic. Plus, you wouldn't need a bottle opener, you get four bottles worth of wine to share, and even if you don't finish, sealing the wine back up is no problem. Even a week after we first tried the wines, they weren't showing any signs of spoiling. You can't go wrong with that.

So if you enjoy, light drinkable wines, and like the idea of only paying the equivalent of $4-$5 a bottle, these new boxed offerings from Duca del Frassino are well worth trying.

Here's what our wine tasting panel had to offer:

Duca del Frassino Garganega & Pinot Grigio
Grape(s): Garganega & Pinot Grigio
Winery: Duca del Frassino
Region: Italy
Price: 15-20 /per box

Review:
A very light wine that offers floral notes, along with suggestions of melon and peach. Easy going and approachable, it's good for summer.
Rating: 83
Character: light fruit, floral, mellow acidity

Duca del Frassino Cabernet and Corvina
Grape(s): Cabernet and Corvina
Winery: Duca del Frassino
Region: Italy
Price: 15-20 /per box

Review:
Lots of cherry, cranberry jam, and bit of plum here. Very light considering it's mostly Cabernet; it's easy-drinking but still somewhat dry. Certainly one of the better boxed wines we've had. Kept well after a week. It's ideal for a picnic lunch.
Rating: 85
Character: red berry fruit, light tannins, soft mouthfeel

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