Susan Feniger's STREET
By
Chef Robert Sturm
Remember
when your mom told you to eat all your vegetables? Boy do I have
news for you! Vegetables never tasted so good. Want a night to
remember that is full of fantastic flavors and unbelievable combinations
of foods? I'm not kidding, you have got to make a trip to Street!
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We
were met at the door by Susan Feniger. You probably
know Susan from the TV shows "Too Hot Tamales" and "Top
Chefs Masters" and of course from the "Border Grill"
restaurant fame.
We
chatted outside the restaurant about the neighborhood, the restaurant
and of course about my favorite topic, food. Once we were in the
door we were escorted to the best seat in the house right outside
the "Chef's Window". We could not only see the action
in the kitchen but we could smell intoxicating aromas escaping
through the window. Susan joined us for some chef-to-chef talk
where we learned that Susan grew up in Toledo, Ohio. Susan has
great memories of cooking at home with her mother and sister,
spending hours at the stove cooking for family events and holidays.
Be sure to ask her about cooking at Smith's Cafeteria for some
great stories. Susan is a Culinary Institute of America grad and
credits Chef Gus Ridie from Kansas City famed restaurant La Bonne
Auberge as her mentor. Susan is well travelled with one of her
favorite countries to visit being India. We could tell from the
menu and flavors that Susan has been to India more than a few
times and has had more than a few bites of some outstanding Indian
cuisine.
Susan
is off to the kitchen cooking up some culinary surprises. Our
server Parker smartly brings a little teaser of an appetizer.
Our first taste was a seemingly simple tortilla chips and dip.
Not so to our delight. The chips were feather light chickpea chips
laced with caraway seeds complimented with tamarind chutney. Mmmmm.....
Delicious. We know that now that we are in for a real treat tonight.
What we did not know was that our entire evening was going to
be a vegetarian delight. Parker by the way is a L.A. native, educated
at the Chicago Arts School and working on becoming a writer here
on the L.A. scene. Good luck Parker!
Our
next adventure with vegetables is the late night Singapore favorite
"Kaya Toast". This dish is a must at two in the morning
finishing a night of libations and celebrations. Chef Sasha Algers
interprets this Asian culinary mainstay with a fabulous grilled
coconut jam filled toast that you dive into dark soy, white pepper
soft egg concoction that was out of site. I'd go back to STREET
for that one dish alone.
Our
table is joined by general manage Shireen Saugen who keeps the
dining room a very comfortable atmosphere. Everyone is welcomed
like they are just neighbors. Shireen is a business graduate from
the University of Santa Clara and is a true world traveler. Shireen's
travels have stretched from Turkey to Peru to Australia with a
few months on board a 60' sailboat. Shireen opened STREET
four years ago with Susan and keeps the restaurant energized with
events and happenings. Check out the website at http://www.eatatstreet.com/streetevents.html.
Okay!!
More about the food. Heard of Jack Fruit? Susan prepares this
fruit originating from Western Ghats (wherever that is, I had
to look it up) in a semi traditional Bao Bun with Hoisin BQ sauce
and nestled with a fresh tangerine salad. This is a grapefruit
size huge Bao Bun was steamed to light perfections then griddled
for a crispy crust. Try a glass of Spatburgunder Blanc (white
pinot noir) by Schlossmühlenhoff with the Bao Bun. A great
combination of taste with this crisp steely wine mixed with the
sweetness of the BBQ jackfruit.
We
devoured the shaved kale and Brussels sprouts. We couldn't believe
that we were eating Brussels sprouts. Unbelievable. I could count
on one hand how many people I know who like Brussels sprouts including
me but this these thinly shaved cabbages with sautéed and
tossed with goat cheese and a tangy lemon picada.
Grilled
artichokes with oregano chimichuri vinaigrette were next. Really,
really tasty especially with the house made Kalamata Aioli sauce.
The aioli was so good I couldn't keep myself from double dipping.
I'm embarrassed to admit I hogged the sauce and kept it to myself.
The showstopper for us this night was a simple roasted baby beet
salad with arugula and frisee with gin vinaigrette. I have got
to have this recipe.
By
this time of the evening we were just filled to complete happiness
when a luscious Croatian Apple Crisp with Cranberry Caramel is
daring us to take a bite. I can't I tell myself but somehow...
okay just one bite. Then another bite, then another. Before we
knew it, voila!! Gone. Thank God that Juan was there to rescue
us with a tableside prepared Hong Kong Style Milk Tea. Juan gently
steeped Darjeeling tea leaves with fresh ginger and sweetened
condensed milk. Juan poured the tea from cup to cup back and forth
creating an after dinner drink with a creamy foamy head that could
rival any cappuccino.
Don't
miss the opportunity to get your vegetable "Five A Day"
at STREET. For the carnivore in you there is plenty of earthly
delights to antagonize the pickiest palates. For special parties
be sure to call Shireen at 323-203-0500.
STREET
is opened for dinner_Sunday-Thursday 5:00-10:00pm, _Friday &
Saturday 5:00-11:00pm. Check out brunch on Saturdays & Sunday
from 11:00-3:00pm. _Friday lunch is 12:00-3:00pm. STREET is located
at 742 N Highland Ave Los Angeles, CA 90038
Susan
Feniger's STREET
742 No. Highland Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.203.0500
streetTalk@eatatstreet.com
http://www.eatatstreet.com/