Essaouira,
another view of Morocco, off the usual tourist spots
Article
by Eric Guidet
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Located
on the Atlantic coast, between Casablanca and Agadir, the location
of Essaouira was already known in the 2nd century BC when King
Juba II developed there the production of purpura. It was later
known under its Portuguese name of Mogador in the 16th century.
It was then an important center for the production of sugar cane
and the sugar was exported all over Europe. In 1764, the Alaouite
Sultan Sidi Muhammad ibn Abdallah decided to build there a fortified
port from where his pirate fleet could rule the ocean. This was
done under the supervision of one of its prisoners, a French engineer
called Cournut who designed the map of the city (Es-saouira means
well drawn) according to the rules edicted by Vauban.
Since
2001, it's been listed by Unesco: "The Committee inscribed
the Medina of Essaouira (Formerly Mogador) on the World Heritage
List under criteria (ii) and (iv):
Criterion (ii): Essaouira is an outstanding
and well preserved example of a late 18th century European fortified
seaport town translated to a North African context.
Criterion (iv): With the opening up
of Morocco to the rest of the world in the later 17th century
Essaouira was laid out by a French architect who had been profoundly
influenced by the work of Vauban at Saint-Malo. It has retained
its European appearance to a substantial extent."
It
is a very well alive city, with its fishing harbour, its souks
with many spice stalls, where you can walk for hours. We strongly
recommend a visit to the fishing harbour and the souks!
During
your stay there, you may visit the city of Safi, about 100 miles
North, the main morocco pottery center. When you buy a piece of
pottery in morocco, chances are it was made in Safi. It's also
a main sardine cannery harbour. The road to get there is very
nice and offers you superb views of the coast. On your way, you
may stop to buy some food at some typical markets in the villages
along the road. While there, you can enjoy one of the best tajines
in town, in the tiny shop, Chez Hosny, in the middle of the pottery
shops. Don't forget a look at the remains of the ancient Portuguese
cathedral.
La
Kasbah de Khemis Meskala, run by Abderrazzak Khoubbane, is a guesthouse
restaurant and cheese factory (mostly sheep and goat) in Khemis
Meksala, about 50 km from Essaouira, off the road to Marrakech.
It is within a superb riad inside an old fortified ksar. A few
years ago, Abderrazzak left his position as a professor in a university
in Canada to come back to his roots and save this family property
from the injuries of time. He now supplies many fine restaurants
in Morocco with his cheeses.
Chez
Sam is a typical sea food restaurant, located at the very end
of the harbour, in the middle of the fishing boats pier. To get
there, you will cross the harbour, among fishermen unloading their
catches of the day or getting ready to go to sea, all in a very
friendly atmosphere.
At
the entrance of the medina, you will find the L'Heure Bleue Palais
Relais & Châteaux hotel, a superb place to stay. The
food mixes French and Moroccan influence, an the terrace offers
you a gorgeous view over the city and the sea.
Sofitel
Essaouira Medina & Spa
Under
the direction of Thomas Greggory, this hotel, a jewel of the Sofitel
Group, is undoubtedly one of the best resorts to be in Essaouira.
The architecture is inspired by the traditional Moroccan riad.
Facing the ocean and the Mogador island, with a private beach,
the stylish red hotel is built around a swimming pool, where you
can enjoy breakfast or lunch. Located near the main entrance to
the medina, it is the ideal place to start a visit to the city.
With
its three restaurants, it's also one of the best places to eat
in Essaouira. You can have meals served at one of the three restaurants
of the hotel. They are under the supervision of the Head Chef,
Menad Berkani. Menad has worked in many countries like Italy,
Spain, Germany, Venezuela, USA or French Caribean Martinique island
before coming to Morocco, so it's no surprise that his teams can
prepare all kinds of international cuisine. You will of course
enjoy French food, but also sea food, some fusion dishes and typical
Moroccan cuisine. The Arganier is the gastronomy restaurant where
you will be served succulent meals in the dining room or by the
pool. On the beach is the Côté Plage with fresh sea
food delivered directly to the hotel by local fishermen with their
catch of the day. Dar Dada is the typical restaurant where chef
Dada prepares Moroccan food according to his mood. Menad if fond
of local culture, and has started o a collection of aromatic olive
oils, made from the best oils of the area, where every possible
local aromatic herb is set to macerate. Ask for a special treatment
with oil condiment! To drink with your meals, don't forget to
try some local wines, the Mogador Wines made by Charles Melia
in his Domaine du Val d'Argan with Côtes du Rhône
grape varieties.
At
the end of the day, you will go to the lounge bar, the Mogador's
Club, where you will find one of the best list of spirits and
cocktails in town and enjoy a British atmosphere.
Of
course, you will find there all the luxury amenities you can expect,
including a hammam, a fitness center and a thalassotherapy spa;
Sofitel
Essaouira Mogador Golf & Spa
A new residential domain, Mogador, is located at the south of
Essaouira, near the sea and featuring 2 golf courses designed
by Gary Player.
That
is where Sofitel has opened its new Moroccan hotel in March 2011.
Designed by Didier Gomez, it combines in harmony the needs of
a modern luxury hotel inspired by the local Essaouira style with
the preservation of the splendid natural site, a vast area of
dunes and forest, along a wild and virgin beach. Daniel KARBOWNIK,
manager of the hotel, is launching this new venture.
Headed
by the Chef Philippe BOURDON, its 3 restaurants welcome you for
a gastronomy experience: L'Atlantique for seafood, Le Café
Kabah and L'Atelier aux Arômes for more international and
fusion meals.
After
a day on the golf course, you want to relax, and then you will
enjoy the warm atmosphere of a clubhouse, the Gary Player Lounge.
You may prefer the Tiki So Bar whose atmosphere reminds you of
the saga of rhum, or the Pool Bar to sip a cocktail in daytime.
Safi
Sofitel
Essaouira
La
Kasbah de Khemis Meskala
Chez
Sam, typical fish restaurant on the fisherman's wharf in Essaouira
Essaouira
harbour
Essaouira
Sofitel
Essaouira Medina & Spa
Avenue Mohamed V 44000 ESSAOUIRA, MOROCCO
(+212)524479000 - (+212)524479080
H2967@sofitel.com
Sofitel
Essaouira Mogador Golf & Spa
Domaine Mogador 44000 ESSAOUIRA, MOROCCO
(+212)5/24479400 - (+212)5/24479401
H7145@sofitel.com
Chez
Hosni - Safi
chezhosni@gmail.com